Author: phebebay

Lake Toba – The Seduction of Sumatra

The Sampans of Sumatra

“Don’t come looking for a holiday, that’s Bali, or empire builders, that’s Java. Sumatra is an adventure, the kind of demanding ride that requires a dusty knapsack and tough travelling skin.” – Lonely Planet Indonesia

I have been to Bali, Java and now to Sumatra, and that’s a really apt quote to describe Indonesia. Bali is the place for a vibrant beach party, while Java is home to the awe-inspiring Borobudu, the hallmark of one the greatest civilizations in South East Asia.

Sumatra is relatively less travelled than the other two, but it’s incredibly special.

The first thing that strikes you when you arrive, is the soil. Everywhere you go, even in the busy city of Medan, the soil sparkles under the rays of the afternoon sun, making each stride you make a special walk through time.

Danau, also known as Lake Toba

It was Lake Toba, also known as Danau Toba that drew me to Sumatra. It’s not a popular destination in South East Asia and the only reason why I wanted to come was because I heard stories about it since I was young. It was the honeymoon destination of The Parents.

28 years ago, The Parents embarked on a tour to the famous lake. They took a coach from the airport in Medan there. Back then, lush vegetation – ferns, trees and wild bushes sprawled across the sides of the highway. Today, the jungle sprawl has been replaced by acres and acres of rubber trees and oil palm neatly lined up in endless rows.

A green path along Lake Toba

The Father said that he remembered seeing coniferous trees when he was there, but I don’t see any of them now, probably due to the effects of global warming. He also remembers taking home a piece of pine wood as a souvenir – and perhaps that is when his love for pine wood developed. Our sofa is in pine, and it has been around for a long time.

The clear, swimable waters of Lake Toba

I can effectively drop Lake Toba under the list of places to visit in SEA. Some friends have told me that the photos are really nice, but I felt that it wasn’t just about the sight, sounds and smells, but the journey of discovery it could offer you.

Life of a fisherman.

Beyond the beautiful photos, what needs to be highlighted is the photos only represent the somewhat positive side of the place, and that the perceived serenity of the place is limited. Especially in transit town of Parapat. While a fisherman lazily lights up a cigarette while waiting for the fish to “makan” the bait and watches the world go by, there are piles of rubbish lying by the sidewalk. Sometimes, a breeze closes in and you could smell a whiff of raw fish, mixed with the thick odours of the marinating salt solution that can be repelling to some.

Lil’ kids learning to fish from a young age

On the way to Tuk Tuk Island, a biker posed for me. : )

The best would be to stay on the Tuk Tuk island in Samosir. That involves taking a ferry from Parapat to Samosir (see the “How To Get There” section at the bottom of this post.) It’s generally more calm, peaceful and clean on the island that is about the size of Singapore, supposedly formed by a massive volcano eruption 77,000 years ago.

On the Samosir island, it’s not difficult to envision how the island could be a product of a volcanic eruption. It’s mostly hilly with cracks forming along the undulating slopes. These seem to be the marks of red hot lava which have trickled down, leaving lava lines that exist until today.

Because Lake Toba is in close proximity to some pretty active volcanos, the soil is rich and special. It’s dark grey, unlike the clayish red soil that you get here in Singapore. As I mentioned earlier, the soil on the ground seem to sparkle under the rays of the sun, making the 5km walk we took from Tomok to Tuk Tuk ever more special.

Pretty awesome roof, unique to the houses there.

If you could ride a bike, I suggest you take a ride around Samosir. If your abilities are limited to that of your pair of legs, put on those trekking shoes and follow the winding road from Tomok to Tuk Tuk, but not before arming yourself with an umbrella. The weather is erratic in Sumatra – passing showers are common and the rule of thumb is that if you don’t hear the clap of thunder, the rain is only going to last for five minutes. The sky can turn threatening grey in a matter of minutes and the rain could last for a long long time and sometimes flooding does occur.

Furthermore, if you are open to the idea, the umbrella also acts as a repellent against the scorching sun;)

An alternate use for a satellite dish

As I mentioned earlier, the journey there is not easy. To get there, I took a becak (something like a Tuk Tuk) and then a public bus, and smoking is allowed on board. There was a passing shower and they closed all the windows. But when the rain stopped, the windows did not open but the passengers continued smoking. It felt like a chimney.

If you’re fair, you may get hustled by touts and some may even take advantage of the lone female traveller.

Ask any experienced traveller, and he or she would tell you that the best places in the world are always hard to come by. There’s always some obstacle in the way, but once we make the effort to get over that, there’s a treasure trove of beauty waiting for us.

The clear, swimable waters of Lake Toba

A sad side to the Lake Toba story is that the region has been frequently affected by volcanic eruptions and numerous earthquakes of magnitudes hitting more than 7 on the Ritcher scale. Perhaps, that’s the price to pay, for having a giant beauty at your doorstep.

Cest la vie (This is life).

Lake Toba is an escape for the tired-out soul, sometimes lost between the struggles of a Singaporean life. The slowness and simplicity of the people and the gentle ripples of the lake has an indescribable healing power for the stressed, sad or confused.

All you need is to surrender your heart and mind and forget the world. For that short time when you’re here.

Lake Toba – Sumatra

Travel Tips

The perfect weekend getaway if you don’t mind making a 5 hour road trip to get there. Instead of bunking in at the seemingly more convenient Parapat, head down to the Tuk Tuk island in Samosir, a 45 minute ferry ride from Parapat. You can find many more lovely cottages with fantastic views.

It is the norm for the accommodation places there not to provide any aircon or fan. To bypass that, have a chilly bath in cold water before sleeping or bring along a sweet travelling companion who wouldn’t mind manually fanning you throughout the night.

Obviously, I had to make do with the former.

Fun fact: Samosir, the island in the middle of Lake Toba is almost the size of Singapore!

How to get there:

Take a becak (something like a tuk tuk) from outside the Polonia International airport near the petrol station to Terminal Bas Amplas. It will cost you about Rp 30,000. Then take a local bus to Parapat. It will cost Rp 25,000 and take 5 hours. The bus should be quite easy to locate with the help of your friendly becak driver. You may even arrange with a tour agency in Medan for direct transport to Lake Toba. It would be more costly.

Smoking is allowed on the buses.

From Parapat, you can take a ferry Rp7000 to Samosir at a number of ferry terminals. Before boarding the ferry, specify which part of Samosir you will be heading too eg. Tuk Tuk/ Tomok etc.

Boat to travel around the islands.

How to get back:

You can take the ferry back to Parapat. From there, book a taxi back to Medan, it should bring you directly to the airport directly. A much more comfortable, smoke free journey. Takes about 5 hours (slightly longer on weekends) and costs Rp 65,000.

January 27, 2013
Varanasi – The best place to be at the end of the world

According to the Mayans, we were at the end of the world in 2012. I am not sure how that theory works, but it got me wondering. If I could choose the place to be at the end of the world, where would it be? Would it be, the beautiful little town of Groningen in The Netherlands? Will it be the kinky, crazy city of Amsterdam? Or would it be Singapore, the place I was born and the place where I spent most of my life in.

Nope, it’s none of them.

If the Mayans are correct, then I’ve got to get myself on a flight to Delhi, and take a 12 hour train ride to this place called Varanasi.

Varanasi

The ancient city of India,

The River Ganges

Washing clothes by the river bank

Varanasi is located in India’s second most poorest state, Uttar Pradesh. The city is simply, a mess. If you thought Chandi Chowk in Old Delhi was difficult to navigate, the city of Varanasi takes you even more aback. The streets are swamped with portholes, masses of people cling on to each other, and trishaws swerve dangerously by the edges of uncovered drains, dispensing water with an odd shade of green. As the fading sun sinks beyond the horizon, spots of florescent lights and kerosene lamps light up the chaotic city. In a blur of the moment, you catch sight of a funeral procession – a group of men carrying a covered body on a wooden plank, to be incinerated and returned back to the creator of life, the river.

Strangely, the very redeeming quality about this place is the same river, the River Ganges, which rushes through the ancient city of Varanasi in its purest form. It’s the throbbing pulse of the city, the sustaining force of thousands and thousands of people who head there to wash garments of all shapes, sizes and colours, take a religious bath, or scatter the ashes of their loved ones into the holy river.

I spent 10 hours of my life in Varanasi. It was a stopover in between the border of Nepal and Delhi. It’s been four years, but the memories still linger. The dobies (wash-wallas) hard at work, scrubbing and stomping on the brightly coloured garments. The uncanny smell of FAB detergent floating by as the sun rises. The rising morning sunlight bouncing off the rippling muscles of a shirtless doby who is flinging a t-shirt with all his strength against the wooden scrubbing board.

As you trot on by to the next ghat, you’d see brightly coloured flags flapping in the wind. By the side of the river bank, you’d see hairy chested men untangling themselves from their shirts, off to take a holy bath in the water. (The women bathe in their sarees.) Till this day, I can’t fathom how can the water be bath-ready when 500 metres away, soap suds and garments are floating aimlessly on the river’s surface.

Then comes the highlight of your trip to Varanasi. It is The Reason why you ever came. Varanasi is probably the only place in the world where dead bodies are placed on wooden crates, doused in oil and set alight, surrendering the dead back to the hands of the Ganga. You’d meet unfriendly touts who will tell you that it cost money to watch these rituals – just pretend to be ignorant and utter jabberish to them. You could observe from afar, and it’s very worth the sight.

Now as the world ends, I wanna perch of the steps of a ghat. A white chariot may come down from the heavens, or everything could just turn black, but I will be glad to be in the presence in an ancient place where humanity is so raw. The place where life and death flows along the same vein. where the orchestra of humanity reaches its crescendo. End of the world or not, Varanasi always serves to tell me that we could spend our lives trying to get rich, to look good and be successful. But eventually, we’ll have to return to nature. And it will be always the same. Past, present or future.

Ashes from the burning of wooden crates

Logs for burning bodies

Freshly Washed, hung to dry

Looks Solemn, these buildings

An interesting “clothes line”

Rippling muscles?

River Ganges – Birds, flying

* * *

Activities by the River

Afternoon chat

Cow Dung Cakes

Things have never change, it seems

Organised Chaos

Clean to dry on the steps?

Friends? Lovers?

Me, and Lonely Planet India

Kite Flying

Big Fans

Shops, they thrive everywhere in India

Beautiful

Just bathed

That’s me. Feeling feverish but looking happy.

Please help yourself?

The Sadhus (Holy Men)

After that eventful border crossing from Nepal, this is heaven.

In my stationary boat

Somebody shouts, “No photo of Cremation Ghat!”

I dedicated this post to Friend T. Who accompanied me on a arduous journey here, and braved the cold for 12 hours back to Delhi. Thank you.

I had a deep seated desire to visit the ancient city, and I am glad I have done so.

January 27, 2013
Ayutthaya – the lesser known side of Thailand

In the presence of greatness

(Both the human and monument)

Speak of Thailand and bustling Bangkok comes to mind. It’s a spectacular city, with a large number of food and retail outlets. It’s also the loveliest place in Asia for shopping and partaking in the endless Thai ice teas and mango salad you can find around.

But if you, like me, are a nature loving soul who likes to be away from the hustle and bustle of the city for awhile, Ayutthaya could be just the place for you. 85km north of Bangkok, the lesser known city is home to a number of temple ruins, monuments and gardens. Heard of the infamous Bagan in Myanmar? Ayutthaya is quite like that, only slightly more commercialized, but nonetheless exudes a unique flavour on its own.

It takes about 2 hours to get there by train from Bangkok’s Hualamphong Train Station. The tickets are the most affordable – it costs 245 baht (less than SGD10).

The last time I took a third class seat and it cost me about 60 cents (SGD), (which is really cheap for a 85km journey.) The seat was slightly hard and there’s no air con, but trust me, natural breeze is the best when you’re travelling in these sort of places. You also come in contact with the locals, which to me, is the best sort of thing to do when you’re on a trip. It is the easiest way to learn about the people and culture of the place.

All it takes is a day trip – if you want to stay longer and indulge in some more peace and quietness, there are a wide number of accommodation choices around the north east of the island.

The best way to get around is via bicycles! Traffic in Ayutthaya is gentler on the soul than in Bangkok, and people tend to be more understanding towards novice cyclists (me).

When I was the last time, my cycling skills were.. (still upgrading) and I had problems getting my balance each time I stopped and had to start. Ayutthayans are really polite as nobody honked at me despite holding up traffic for a few brief moments 😉 Click (http://thetravellingsquid.wordpress.com/2013/01/28/hiding-from-bangkok-ayutthaya/) to read my epic story.

I must say that while the cycling was a rather stressful experience, it was a good learning one as well because if you don’t cycle, you will go nowhere. It’s like a do or die sort of thing. The temples were too far away to get there by foot, and I would Never take a taxi when I can cycle.

There are no Wats (temples) in particular I think you should visit. I visited only three or four because there was a charge of USD2 each time you entered. In Bagan, you pay a flat fee of USD10 and you get to visit as many temples as you like. But there are some open spaces with crumbling red bricks, representative of the magnificent structures they once used to uphold. And it’s always nice to sit on these steps, under the shade of an angsana and ponder about life.

I was there with an Indonesian friend I met at a hostel in Bangkok, and I must say it’s one of the more remarkable moments during my train trip to Thailand. It was the time when I travelled with someone I had never met before, and it was also a time when I cycled on the road (will never dream of doing that in Singapore) and had a eye opening experience on the local trains.

A Japanese tourist, mistaking me for a local, had asked me for my phone number. Well, that is for another post.

In a local train – who left their pants behind?

Cushy train seats

At the train station

The ancient Wats – a good make out spot?

Crumbling steps mixed with cotton

Great place for a picnic

Sit on the red, clay bricks for a picnic

Mother and Daughter time

The Fried food seller

Thai Yong Tau Foo?

Little Ah Beng

Waiting for the train

About Ayutthaya (From Wiki)

Ayutthaya (อยุธยา), full name Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya (พระนครศรีอยุธยา), is an ancient capital and modern city in the Central Plains of Thailand, 85 km north of Bangkok.

Founded around 1350, Ayutthaya became the second capital of Siam after Sukhothai. Throughout the centuries, the ideal location between China, India and the Malay Archipelago made Ayutthaya the trading capital of Asia and even the world. By 1700 Ayutthaya had become the largest city in the world with a total of 1 million inhabitants. Many international merchants set sail for Ayutthaya, from diverse regions as the Arab world, China, India, Japan, Portugal, the Netherlands and France.

Merchants from Europe proclaimed Ayutthaya as the finest city they had ever seen. Dutch and French maps of the city show grandeur with gold-laden palaces, large ceremonies and a huge float of trading vessels from all over the world. All this came to a quick end when the Burmese invaded Ayutthaya in 1767 and almost completely burnt the city down to the ground.

Today, only a few remains might give a glimpse of the impressive city they must have seen. Its remains are characterized by the prang (reliquary towers) and big monasteries.

Most of the remains are temples and palaces, as those were the only buildings made of stone at that time. The great cultural value of Ayutthaya’s ruins were officially recognized in 1991, when the Historic City became an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its proximity to Bangkok make it a popular day-trip destination for travelers from Bangkok.

For more information, please visit: http://wikitravel.org/en/Ayutthaya

January 27, 2013
Ten good reasons why you should go to India

The children of India

India is not exactly everyone’s destination. She’s like a crazy, temperamental lover that you can never understand – yet being with her brings out the person that you never thought you were. When you are together, you learn that rules are meant to be broken, and the most beautiful conversation is said with a smile, rather than an avalanche of words.

Personally, I feel that everyone should go to India. If you hate it on the first try, go again the next time. If you get punched in the eye during the second time, harden your heart and return again. If you still haven’t fallen in love with her on your tenth trip, then I guess, you have the prerogative to stop reading my blog.

Note: If you’re thinking of working in India, the PAN card might come in useful – click here to Apply for a PAN Card.

There are ten great reasons why you should go to India. You may not agree with all, but if any one of them agrees with you, you should pack your bag and hit the airport.

1. Your main goal of travelling is NOT for a massage, shopping for clothes or good food.

If there’s a place that doesn’t have these three things, chances are it’s India. The food in India is somewhat exquisite – you will need hardened taste buds and a little courage. Do take note that a “Delhi Belly” (diarrhea) is very common, so come prepared with rolls of toilet paper.

I love buying books and cheap lip balm there, but there’s really nothing else to shop for. Unless you are looking for a Sari or Salwar Kameez.

2. You are tired of seeing fellow Singaporeans or your own countrymen.

I am not sure about you, but I detest seeing my fellow countrymen during overseas trips. I have no wish to see suaku Singaporeans haggling at bazaars or talking very loudly as if they know the place very well. Since you are paying so much money for the air ticket, why not get an entirely different experience from that at home?

3. You want to get into a fight, but you’re afraid of getting caught.

In most of my experiences with Indian men, there is a higher tendency for them to get into fights. Sorry to generalise, I mean hotblooded young Indians not the mature kind (like you my dear reader). Simply scold his mother, father or girlfriend, and he is bound to make the first move. Duck quickly, and show off those moves you have learnt from National Service (applicable only to Singaporean guys).

Also, cops in India are willing to look away if a high valued rupee note has been tucked into the breast pocket of their uniform.

4. You have a lack of cash but need to travel badly.

Food, accommodation and transportation are very cheap in India, if you don’t mind the lack of comfort. The barest rooms go for under SGD10 a night – (that’s not even a dorm but a full room with a fan and personal toilet). Getting from state to state takes time, but a train ticket that costs less than SGD10 will bring you hundreds of kilometres in sleeper class.

5. You are facing burnout from your job.

Burnouts happen when an activity that stresses you out happens repeatedly. A trip to India will stress you out in different ways, ensuring that you forget most of the unhappiness back at home.

There are some places in India which will allow you to calm yourself down, rest, meditate and think about your next steps.

6. You want an uninterrupted annual leave.

If you hate being bothered by emails and phone calls during your annual leave, tell the office you are going to India. It’s difficult to get a local SIM card there, and there is a common perception that things in India don’t work the way you want them to be. Just like the phones and Wifi connection. 😉

7. You are trying to escape from something or someone.

This has never happened to me but I can assure you that it’s pretty easy to lose yourself in a bustling city like Delhi or Mumbai.

8. You need bragging rights.

If the rest of your peers are always going on about how awesome Europe is, shut them up with talk of India. And your stories will be sure to be more interesting than theirs. : )

9. You have nothing else to do.

If you are unemployed, retired or have too much time on your hands, go to India. India’s the window to the world, and you stand to learn about more things than you ever did, holing up in that small apartment of yours in Singapore.

10. You are searching for love.

India has its fair share of hunks and babes, but let me clarify that “love” doesn’t mean the romantic sort of french kissing and holding hands. When I mean love, it could mean loving a place, country, or a group of random people that touches your heart in many different ways. And that is for you to discover.

Good luck.

* * *

Experience an occasional flooding

Bathing in public

Try out the delectable Indian cuisine

Meet a peaceful cow by the road

See how trishaws act as school buses

Say hi to a topless, hunky Indian man

January 27, 2013
Sri Lanka, the gentler cousin of India

Sri Lankan Monks

Happy to change clothes because of…? 😉

I am waiting to board the plane. I may be running a slight fever, but I’d say that this trip, no matter how inconvenient it may be, was quite worth it.

Having travelled and stayed in India for long, it is not difficult to detect the similarities between the India and Sri Lanka. Landscape wise, both are quite similar. There are tall coconut trees that line the horizon, combined with a lush sprawl of greenery. It reminds me of Chennai.

The hill station, Nuwara Eliya, makes me think that I was back in Shimla, a hill station in India colonized by the British. Even the shops along the roads make me think of India. In the cities, it’s the familiar jasmine fragrance that fills the air in the morning, and the bus drivers who rely heavily on the three most important factors in driving – good brakes, good horn, and good luck.

But there’s a significant difference, and I think it’s got to do with the people. In India, I was always on the guard – is this auto wallah going to rip me off, or worst kidnap me? Why are you asking where am I going? Are you a tout, devising ways in how to cheat me? Why is he staring at me? Am I a target of his somewhat dirty thoughts?

I survived 6 months of India by employing these defensive tactics, and they’d never failed me. Of course I did get “touched” once or twice, but it’s inevitable and not that big an issue.

As you know, I fell in love with India, because despite so many things that could go and are wrong, there are these moments of kindness and love that show up when you don’t expect it, and it touches you in such a profound way that I can’t describe with words.

I had many firsts with India too. My first hill station, my first river, my first river with burning funeral pyres, my first 16 hour overland trip and my first time seeing snow.

India turned me to a fighter, I learnt to look into people’s eyes – and decide if I could trust them in a split second. And boy, it did feel good when I, a small sized Chinese girl told off a cheating bus conductor to piss off and try and cheat somebody else. (Of course I wasn’t alone, my guy friend T was there and we had to take another bus in the end.)

So when I went to Sri Lanka, I was comforted to know that men were not staring at me all the time like I was a sex goddess. In fact, the first time a bus conductor (from another bus) asked me where I was going, I ignored him – only after giving in a few more times did I realize that he sincerely wanted to help.. he actually walked me to where the bus was! On a bus to the elephant orphanage, I actually requested the bus conductor to tell me where to alight, which he willingly did.

Along the way, the auto wallahs did not try to rip you off that much, (not like 3 or 4 times the price), and were respectful enough. Today, I took an auto to the elephant orphanage in Pinnewalla, and the auto wallah deviously brought me to some place that offered elephant rides.

He said that it made much more sense to take the elephant ride that see the orphanage and all I needed to do was to tell him firmly ( thank goodness as the place was quite deserted.) In India I might have to raise my voice, or use the soft approach (it sometimes work too!).

But I think, what I like about Sri Lanka is there doesn’t seem to be a visible class divide like in India. Today, I met some condescending Indian rich tourists telling the ticket collector off, and I was sorely reminded how some of these folks seem to think that having money gives them to right to treat other “lesser people like security guards and maids” without respect.

Perhaps I haven’t been in Sri Lanka that long, but on my first class train ride to Nuwara Eliya from Colombo, the locals do not show a disparity in their dressing. They were deck out in cotton shirts and slippers – one even offered me some rambutans. Now trust me I looked nothing like a “chio” Japanese or Korean traveller – my face was oily, pimples were bursting from beneath and I was wearing my faded baggy pair of berms and slippers. In India, these “big shots” often give me a strange look – like my dressing was not presentable enough to be dining in the same place as them.

I am glad that I went to India first before visiting Sri Lanka. It’s only after experiencing all the problems, pollution and anger did I realize, that kindness cannot be taken from granted. And the Sri Lankan people leaves me feeling warm and cozy, like a thick blanket in a Nuwara Eliya’s winter night.

Which do I prefer now, you may ask. Well I’d say, if I wanted a peaceful relaxing trip to calm my stressed up soul, I’ll go to Sri Lanka. But if I was in the search for some meaning in life or a good story to tell, it will have to be India. Because there will never be a place that could make you so sad, furious and elated at the same time.

But more importantly than not, It will depend on the preference of my travelling companions – and that is for another blogpost.

January 27, 2013
An introduction to.. The Travelling Squid

In case you’re wondering why this blog, The Travelling Squid is named after a Squid, here’s why. In the Malay language, “Sotong” is the word for squid. And according to the Coxford Singlish dictionary, “sotong” is used to describe someone as rather inept or in a world of his own. Presumably, it comes from the squid’s emission of a cloud of ink, hence the popular phrase, “blur like sotong.”

And that essentially describes me, Phebe Bay, the 19 year old Singaporean traveller who survived a 6 month long trip to India and then travelled the word, sometimes alone and sometimes with friends. There are many things I learnt the hard way – from getting a brain freeze after washing my hair in negative temperatures in Kashmir, to improvising socks for gloves in the cold winter’s day of Vietnam, or being a bed bug victim after a solo trip to India.

I am in no position to give expert advice about travelling, but I believe everyone can and should travel. Be it in groups or even alone. You may have a bad sense of direction (me!), a low EQ, or may be a stickler for cleanliness and hygiene but as long as you have some common sense, (and wads of local currency), you should be able to survive.

Travelling brings you closer with (and sometimes further apart from) your companions and even helps you build friendships across the world. But most importantly, it brings alot more meaning to the little lives we have grown so accustomed to.

The seasoned traveller will know, that travelling teaches us about humility, graciousness and patience, and cannot be taught through any top corporate training programmes or incentive trips.

I hope the tips and tricks section will help you with your travelling plans. I have also shared a couple of tales – some good, some bad, and some just plain hilarious.

Travelling awakens the dreamers, thinkers and believers in us. And I hope this blog can help you do that, in some way or another.

January 27, 2013