If you’re visiting Venice for a short trip and are looking to buy gifts for friends back home, Venice may not come across as a place which sells great gifts. Some may be put away by the price of Murano glass, while others, the functionality of a Venetian mask. But fret not, Venice is the capital of the province Veneto in Italy, which is well known for its high quality produce as well as delectable wines. Here are 5 affordable types of food gifts to bring back from Venice, and where to get them.
5 affordable types of food gifts to bring back from Venice
1. Wines from the Veneto region
The Al Merca Wine Bar in Venice
In earlier posts, I shared that we visited the Al Merca Wine Bar in Venice and had the a very elegant Ripasso, which is wine made from the Valpolicella zone, fermented with grapes skins left from fermenting Amarone wines. Do make a trip see if these wines are up your alley. If you like them, do buy a bottle.
Generous tasting portions from El Vin Del Paron
If you’re looking to buy a gift for a friend that enjoys pleasant and smooth reds and is not particular about the type of wine he/she drinks, do visit El Vin Del Paron. A bottle of wine cost €5.50 and it was the most pleasant affordable wine I’ve had. The wine is also great for big parties.
2. Olive oil
The Garda PDO olive oil. Photo credit: The Atlas
Similar to wine, olive oil has different varieties. In Veneto, olive oil comes in three different varieties: Veneto Valpolicella, Veneto Euganei e Berici or Veneto del Grappa. According to Taste Atlas, its colour is golden yellow to green and has a taste of fresh olives with some bitterness. PDO translates to Protected Designation of Origin, an accreditation for olive oils made in an area of good quality and reputation. Two well-known Veneto olive oil brands include the Garda PDO which can be found in specialty shops in Venice. It cost about €15 for a 500ml bottle.
3. Pastas
Picture of the bioli – it looks like a pasta. Photo credit: The Atlas
The pasta unique to Venice is the Bigoli, which is spaghetti-like and comes in the form of a long and thick strand. In the early days, bigoli was made with buckwheat flour, but is now commonly made with whole wheat flour and at times includes duck eggs. The noodles is rough and holds sauce well – making a perfect gift for those who enjoy cooking.
Giacomo Rizzo is well-regard especially for its pastas. Pastas are one of the affordable types of food gifts to bring back from Venice
If you’re keen to purchase pastas including flavoured ones other than Bigoli, check out Pastificio Giacomo Rizzo in Venice. It has received good reviews on Tripadvisor and is well-known for its porcini pasta.
Address: Salizada S. Giovanni Grisostomo 5778, Venice, Italy
4. Prosciutto (ham)
Proscuitto e Parmagiano – a great place to buy cold cuts and cheese back home. Photo credit: Tripadvisor
If you’re heading back to your home country the next day, do bring some ham (and cheese) with you. I am not an expert on what good ham and cheese is, is just that I have read reviews that the shop Prosciutto e Parmigiano had a knowledgeable owner who was willing and able to recommend what wines to go with the ham and cheese.
Address: Calle del Mondo Novo Castello 5793/A, 30122 Venice, Italy
5. Parmigiano (cheese)
Just in case you’re wondering, Parmigiano-Reggiano is not just cheese, but it refers to parmesan cheese in particular. I’m a big fan of cheese is just that I don’t quite know what types to buy back. Having friendly and knowledgeable staff, such as those from Prosciutto e Parmigiano can be helpful, especially if they can advise you on the cheeses available. I suspect hard cheeses such as Parmesan will be able to keep better during the commute. The best part is that they are able to vacuum-pack your purchase, so your produce is kept fresh on your way home.
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The Travelling Squid’s Take
My first impression of Venice was that it was a very touristy place and I might not be able to find good local food to bring back. But fret not, there are still local places where you can buy food gifts back for your loved ones and friends. If you have a longer journey ahead of you, do save the gift-buying for other cities, especially when it comes to cheese and ham as these things don’t keep as well. But if you’re looking to buy wine and olive oil from the Veneto region, the shops highlighted are a must-visit. Hope you find this post on 5 affordable types of food gifts to bring back from Venice useful. If you have recommendations, do drop a comment in the box below.
If you’re thinking of making a trip to the Rialto, do check out the Rialto Bridge which connects the Venice town of San Marco to that of San Polo. During our recent trip, we stayed at San Polo, at Hotel Riva Del Vin, which was a quieter part of town where the good bars and restaurants were. The Rialto Bridge was pretty crowded each time we walked past to head to San Marco. The question then is, when is the best time to visit the Rialto Bridge in Venice?
What makes the Rialto Bridge significant?
The Rialto Bridge is the oldest of the four bridges spanning the Grand Canal in Venice, Italy. It connects the districts of San Marco and San Polo, and has been rebuilt several times since its first construction as a pontoon (floating) bridge in the 12th century. Rialto has been the commercial and financial heart of the city. Today, it is home to many shops (mostly catered to tourists) and a fish market, which is located a 5 minute walk from the bridge on the San Polo side.
When is the best time to visit the Rialto Bridge in Venice?
The Rialto Bridge was very crowded each time we visited, filled with people taking pictures, of the scenery and of themselves. It was slightly less crowded in the mornings, but in my opinion, the Rialto Bridge is worth visiting in the evenings as the canal was quite charming when lighted up at dusk. While we were there, it was covered by a layer of fog too, like a scene from a film. That made me think about how Venice used to be in the past.
Morning
When is the best time to visit the Rialto Bridge in Venice? This is a scene in the morning.The Rialto Bridge in the morning.
Afternoon
Rialto Bridge in the afternoon.The Rialto Bridge in the afternoon.
Evening
The Rialto Bridge in the evening.The other side of the Rialto Bridge
Should you decide to visit Rialto Bridge in the evening, do stop by these restaurants and bars in San Polo, which make for affordable and delicious local eats (and drinks). These include Ostaria dai Zemei, the Al Merca Wine Bar and affordable wine place, El Vin Del Paron.
Other misty days in San Marco near St Mark’s Square
When is the best time to visit the Rialto Bridge in Venice?
If you visit the Rialto Bridge in the morning, do take a 10 min walk to St Mark’s Square, which is likely to be covered in fog. Visibility was no more than 10m while we were there. We spent about 2 hours at the Doge’s Palace and the fog had lifted at about noon. The scenery was the best then.
Mist off St Mark’s Square
The Travelling Squid’s Take
To be honest, we stayed very close to the Rialto bridge and we didn’t find it to be a huge attraction. It was more of a bridge which we used to get from San Polo, which was where our hotel was, to San Marco, where most of the attractions were. But I was glad to be able to see the canal from the bridge at different times of the day. The hustle and bustle was a stark difference from what we experienced walking around Castello, where most of the buildings were nearly empty.
Having Cicchetti at Ostaria dai Zemei in Venice – it’s worth checking out!
In an earlier post, I mentioned that Hotel Riva Del Vin was located in a great location because of the number of good bars and restaurants it was located at. Apart from the Al Merca Wine Bar which served pretty complex Italian wines, and El Vin Del Paron which served pleasant chuggable wines, we were pleased to find Ostaria dai Zemei near our hotel too. The restaurant sold cicchetti (small bites unique to Venice), similar to the Spanish version of tapas. Specifically, Ostaria dai Zemei sells crostini, which comprises toasted bread slices with all sorts of toppings on it, including meat, vegetables, cheese and egg. We loved the place so much that we had it for dinner and lunch the next day. Here’s our experience having Cicchetti at Ostaria dai Zemei in Venice.
Cicchetti at Ostaria dai Zemei in Venice – love the variety of crostini available including those with anchovies on the top. The white one is baccala crostini (a cream salty cod paste), see more below.
Having Cicchetti at Ostaria dai Zemei in Venice
A glass of wine goes very well with the crostini – supper yummy. Like the photo on the right, in the background.
We first came across Ostaria dai Zemei while looking for a late afternoon snack at about 4pm. It’s Google reviews were very good and the restaurant was less than a 5-minute walk from our Hotel Riva Del Vin. When we visited at about 4pm that day, the bar was somewhat full but we managed to find a space at the corner. We also ordered two glasses of wine to go with our crostini.
Pricing – it’s cheaper if you eat at the bar
There were all sorts of crostini – from meat, to fish, to cheese and vegetables.
Similar to tapas bars in Spain, it cost more to eat while seated at a table than standing at the bar. Each crostino cost €1.80 at a bar and €2 while seated, while the crostino baccala (a dry salted cod fish) was €2 and €2.30 at the bar. Most people opted for the bar option as the seats were outside the restaurant and it was quite cold outside.
What should you order?
This might be cream tuna crostini.
It really depends from person to person – but I strongly encourage you to try the baccala (dried salted cod) crostini. Unlike the salted cod which I tried in Portugal which was super salty, the baccala cream crostini was just nice, mixed with cream, garlic and olive oil. It was most delicious.
The crostino on the right is baccala. Looks so good.
We were warned about the chili pepper, but thought that having an Asian palate could help us navigate the spice. It turns out the chili was incredibly spicy and S needed a glass of white wine to neutralise the spice.
Polenta crostini with mushrooms. This came with sweet onion too.
We also tried the polenta crostini with mushrooms – to be honest, I preferred it on bread. The base (which I think is polenta) tasted like a Chinese steamed rice cake (chwee kueh). I preferred the topping on bread instead as it was more chewy and had more texture.
The Travelling Squid’s Take
Fresh ingredients and a simple, straightforward cooking style defined Italian food everywhere we ate at. Having cicchetti at Ostaria dai Zemei in Venice was no different. What I really liked about the restaurant was its friendly atmosphere too. It was the owner’s birthday and he went about giving toasts to all customers. It didn’t matter than we look Asian and were tourists. He toasted us all the same.
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Have Cicchetti at Ostaria dai Zemei in Venice
Address: San Polo 1045, b, 30125 Venezia VE, Italy
Tel: +39 041 520 8596
Opening hours: 8.30am – 8.30pm (closes at 7pm on Sunday)/ Closed on Tuesdays
Is Burano and Murano in Venice worth visiting? It was an interesting trip but my heart is still with Venice.
During our recent trip to Venice, we decided to stop by the smaller islands of Burano and Murano at an Italian friend’s recommendation. Friend A said that Burano was known for its lace embroidery while Murano was known for its glassware. We visited the islands during the off-season and they were rather quiet. There were hardly anyone visiting Murano, but Burano had a substantial number of Asian tourists taking pictures with the brightly coloured houses. Is Burano and Murano in Venice worth visiting? I would say if you have some time on your hands, make a trip as the islands are quite different from Venice. It’s a short half-day trip from Venice.
Is Burano and Murano in Venice worth visiting? We visited in early Feb and Murano was very empty – very few shops were open and there were very few visitors.
Is Burano and Murano in Venice worth visiting?
Taking the ferry from the terminal F.te Nove ‘A’
Getting there
We took a ferry from the terminal F.te Nove ‘A’, which was a 15-minute walk from our hotel, Hotel Riva Del Vin. It cost €7.50 for any number of trips within the 90-minute duration. The ferries departed at a 15-minute interval.
We visited during the non-peak period and there were more than enough seats.
Murano
Murano – it was very quiet, there was almost no one around.
We first stopped by Murano, which was a 10-minute ferry ride from the F.te Nove ferry terminal. Perhaps it was due to the off-season but the town was very quiet. There were a few shops open, but we did not enter as we were not particularly looking to buy glassware. If you are into decorative glassware pieces, Murano would be a good place to get them. We were on the island for about 30 minutes before taking the next ferry out.
Only a few glass shops were open.We didn’t enter as we were not keen to buy Murano glass.Example of Murano Glassware – By Mehran Moghtadai – Mehran Moghtadai granted permission to use this image in Wikipedia with the licence below., CC BY-SA 3.0
Burano
Lace Museum
The Lace Museum in Burano.
Burano was a little more interesting because its specialty was lace. We visited the Lace Museum and saw different types of Venetian lace. It cost €5 to enter (comes with complimentary access to the toilet too). The somewhat realistic fact is that lace used to be prized as it was handmade but much of the lace you see today is made by machine. We spotted two Italian ladies sewing in the museum – it was good to know that such a craft still exists. Once again, I spotted a chair that looked like the one in Van Gogh’s painting. Apart from the actual lace, I thought that the Impressionist paintings of people sewing lace were quite nice.
Thought the curtains went well with the display.Nice handiwork. Apparently in Venetian days, lace was a sign of wealth.Painting of women sewing.Dresses made with lace.Thought the lighting was good.
The Painted Houses
Actual residents of Burano greeting each other.
The painted houses of Burano are said to be the most colourful houses in all of Italy. It is said that the houses were brightly painted by fishermen so that they could find their way home easily. As we had a meal of fried seafood, we observed some many tourists whipping out their selfie sticks to take a photo. These photo-taking sessions could take a long time, for about 3-5 minutes, hence you can imagine the possibility of a selfie-congestion on the century old bridges.
Bepi’s house – undergoing renovation.
We visted Bepi’s house, the most colourful house in Burano but it was undergoing renovation while we were there.
The houses this side was not favoured by Instagrammers perhaps due to the dull colour.Getting a photo without Instagrammers inside was quite a feat.Burano – was no different to me than Murano, though it had a lot more people taking selfies.The path facing the sea looks quiet, but there were people present on the right taking selfies.A lace shop at Burano.
In terms of food, the Fritto Misto we had was pretty tasty but I would think that there is a wider selection of food options back at Venice. We later returned to Ostaria dai Zemai to have more crostinis for lunch.
The fritto misto made for a great snack, before we returned to Venice for lunch.
The Travelling Squid’s Take
Burano was a little too colourful for me – Venice felt more realistic.
Is Burano and Murano worth visiting? I would say yes, if you have some time to spare and would like to take a break from the hustle and bustle of Venice’s touristy life. Just take note that in the off-season, many shops in Murano will be closed. If you’re into insta-worthy photos, Burano is definitely a must, though I must say that my preferred aesthetic is that of Venice’s brick walls and canals, without me in the picture.
The wine bar in Venice – it is very popular among Italians
If you’re looking to try Italian wines in Venice, the Al Merca wine bar is a must visit. Unlike other more touristy bars in Venice, it has relatively short opening hours. It is open from 10am – 2.30pm in the afternoons and 6pm – 8pm in the evenings. But it is worth it because the wines are a little more complex than El Vin Del Paron which a short 2 minute walk away. Each glass of wine also cost about €3-€5, which is pretty affordable especially for Venice. Here’s why you should visit the Al Merca Wine Bar in Venice.
Visit the Al Merca Wine Bar in Venice
Cicchetti – the Aperol Spritz was quite popular too.
There are no seats at Al Merca, most of the people visiting just stand to have a glass of wine or a spritz. There is a small bench outside which can accommodate about 4 people. There were many Italians who visited Al Merca when we were there. What we liked about Al Merca is the complexity and elegance of the wines. For the price, it felt like great value.
Check out the rich colour of the wines. Love it.
Here are some tasting notes of the reds we tried, by S:
Ripasso – Elegant, full bodied. [Red wine from the Valpolicella zone – Blend of three Valpolicella grapes [Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara] added to grape skins left from fermenting Amarone wines]
Syrah – A little spicy, more fruit forward as compared to the Ripasso.
Valpolicella Classico – Like the Ripasso, but less intense and complex. [Valpolicella is made in the province of Verona, ranks after Chianti in DOC wine production]
Vertigo – A Merlot and Cabernet blend, unique to the Al Merca wine bar. Relatively easy drinking and fruit forward for a Bordeaux blend
We also had some cicchetti (small snacks) for dinner, which came in the form of little sandwiches with ham and salami in there. They were priced at €1.50 and were quite delicious.
The Travelling Squid’s Take
If you’re looking to learn about Italian wines, the Al Merca Wine Bar is a good place to start. The good wines have been selected by the bar owners and you get the chance to try different types of wines with each serving. For me, it was good to try both the Ripasso (had a lot more flavour), as compared to the Valpolicella Classico as there was less fermentation with Amarone grape skins. If you’re looking for something more casual, go for the Aperol Spritz as well – it was a pretty popular beverage while we were there too. Glad to find this local hole-in-the-wall, which was very unexpected in Venice!
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Visit the Al Merca Wine Bar in Venice
Campo Bella Vienna, 213, 30125 Venezia VE, Italy
Opening hours: 10am – 2.30pm and 6pm – 8pm [Open till 9.30pm on Fridays and Saturdays], closed on Sundays.
During our last trip to Venice in early Feb 2020, I was taken aback. Not by the number of tourists in Venice, but rather, the number of empty buildings. Perhaps it was because we visited during the non-peak season in winter. But apart from a few touristy areas, visitors had dried up, and all that was left were empty houses which were boarded up. Some homes even had grills across the windows and doors, presumably to keep squatters out. Along the way to the Venezia train station on a river taxi, we passed by more abandoned, dilapidated buildings. It then got me thinking – what happen to Venice, which used to be one of the most vibrant cities in the world? Why did Venetians leave their homes? And last of all, why are there so many empty buildings in Venice?
Empty buildings in Castello Venice – there was no one around.
Why are there so many empty buildings in Venice?
During our Secret Itineraries tour of the Doge’s Palace, our guide, a Venetian lady told us that the local population of Venice had fallen by half, to 55,000 today over three decades. This was due to the rising cost of living. In addition, she said that restoring older homes was expensive due to transportation, as some workers and tools had to be moved by gondolas. I was interested in this topic and read on. Here are some answers to ‘why are there so many empty buildings in Venice’.
1. Cost of living is too high
Boats parked by the side in Castello, Venice.
It is true that most things in Venice are more expensive than the other parts of Italy, including Florence which is quite touristy. For example, a glass of Chianti Classico goes for about €5 in Venice. In Florence or other cities, I could get it for €3-€4. As we walked around the quieter neighbourhoods in Venice, we realised that there were not that many local shops open too. In Castello, there was a small supermarket located a 15 minute walk away from the residential area. It must be tough living there, without the convenience of a modern shopping mall.
The town square of Castello was quite empty when we got there.Bed sheets and towels left hanging.
2. Property prices are just too high
Couldn’t help but notice the water level had risen to the steps and to the door, even.
Reuters and The Guardian reported the perspectives of people squatting in abandoned homes in Venice, because property prices were just too high. Many landlords would rather rent out their homes to more lucrative AirBnB day-trippers, than locals at a rate which can be paid with their salary. According to a 38-year old stagehand who was interviewed by The Guardian, he was paid about €12,000 per year and could not afford the rent of €800 or €900 per month. Therefore, he had taken to squatting at an empty apartment instead. I personally found this information interesting because the empty houses which we saw were mostly out of the tourist zone. I was surprised that the rent was so high.
3. The number of non-tourism jobs have depleted
There were boats, but they were all covered up.
Jobs are what attract people to a place and keep them there. This Bloomberg article describes it well – Venice is addicted to tourism. Due to the lucrative tourist industry, there has been lack of an impetus to draw investment to other industries. Traditional industries such as chemicals and steel are mostly gone. Hence many people have moved away from Venice to find jobs on the mainland, leaving their homes behind.
4. The empty houses could be seasonal, during the non-peak tourist season
Some of the homes were boarded up.
I would actually appreciate some help on this point because I can’t verify my assumption, as to whether the empty houses we saw in Castello would be filled once the peak tourist season starts. It might be the case as Castello is a 30 minute walk from the main tourist spot of San Marco. We hypothesized that people working in the tourist industry could have gone away temporarily during the off-peak tourist season. If you are aware of the situation, please drop a comment in the box below. Grazie!
5. Buildings that don’t generate revenue are left empty – no one can be bothered
Basilica of San Pietro di Castello. Also known as a minor basilica. It was quite empty when we were there.
It is sad to say that from a business owner’s perspective, I would probably not restore my building unless I could make money from it or if it was mandated by the city government. The main touristy spot in Venice is San Marco and if I was the owner of a building in Cannaregio, I would probably leave it as it is as tourists don’t quite frequent that area. It will also cost more to do restoration works given the limited number of labourers available on the island.
Hands popping up from the water. Were they works left behind from the Biennale.
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The Travelling’s Squid’s Suggestion – Revive Venice as a place for retirement
We noticed some bedsheets hanging over the cobblestone streets.
Many people come to Venice for a day or two and then head back after getting that perfect picture for Instagram. I was one of those day-trippers. But I think Venice has potential, not just as a tourist destination, but as a place to live. There is something quite charming and idyllic just going about one’s daily life, living in a house which overlooks a canal. Crossing a bridge to purchase vegetables from a gondola. Hanging your bed sheets over a cobblestone alley. Popping over to a local trattoria to have some fresh pasta for lunch. Having an affordable glass of wine in the afternoon before taking a siesta.
There’s also a leaning tower here.This basilica looks worse for wear.
As a wannabe entrepreneur, the last statement got me thinking about the target audience who can, and would enjoy a glass of wine in the afternoon. It can only be students and retirees. I would think the latter might be more feasible and open to this concept. Alas, can Venice be revived to be a place of retirement? Please share your feedback in the comments section below.
Visit El Vin Del Paron for affordable wine in Venice – it would have been nice if the shop had a signboard.
If you’re looking to try fresh, simple Italian wine, do visit El Vin Del Paron for affordable wine in Venice. It was by far the cheapest wine place we had visited in Italy, and the wine was smooth and pleasant. If you’re hosting a big group of people or a large party, it’s the kind of wine you could bring out after serving your best bottles (wink*). Here’s why you should visit El Vin Del Paron for affordable wine in Venice.
Wine in wooden bucketsEl Vin Del Paron’s Cabernet
Visit El Vin Del Paron for affordable wine in Venice
We came across El Vin Del Paron by chance, while we were walking around the shopping area opposite the Rialto ferry station, waiting for the Al Merca Wine Bar to open. It was a cute little shop (with no signboard) and we noticed that wine was sold in wooden bucket like structures, which was interesting. They were also very affordable, with the wine going at €2.40 per litre if you were to bring your own bottle. The shop also had recycled mineral water bottles by the side, for customers who wanted wine by the litre. The wine in the glass bottles was priced at €5.50, the price of wine sold per serving at some of the restaurants we visited!
Generous tasting portions
The shop’s staff asked if we would like a taste – he poured us a hearty portion, at least one serving’s worth of wine. After trying it, we thought it was good and decided to try their Merlot and Carbnet Sauvignon. The wine tasting cost us €2 per person, and the staff poured us a generous portion – about two serving’s worth of wine to try. The shop also had a little room upstairs for you to sit and try the wine – I can imagine it would be fun to go with friends (and maybe bring your own cheese).
There was a tasting area at the second floor of the shop.
Here are some tasting notes of the wine from El Vin Del Paron, by S:
Cabernet Sauvignon – Seemed unoaked (no woody flavour), hardly any tannins despite being a young cabernet. Very short finish, extremely fruit forward and easy drinking.
Merlot – Fruit forward but less so than the Cabernet with more herbal notes.
Also spotted a Van Gogh looking chair on the left
If you were to bring your own bottle, the wine has to be drunk in a week, and for those in a bottle, it has to be drunk in a month. It probably has little preservatives such as sulphites.
The staff shared with us that the wines were sold on a wine exchange and it was very competitive. What the company is famous for is actually making red wine prosecco, and is one out of two producers in Italy to do so. If you’re wondering if the shop had any business, the answer is yes – three locals stopped by the shop while we were there, asking the staff to refill their plastic containers. El Vin Del Paron is probably a good wine to have each day with a meal, or to be used for cooking.
The Travelling Squid’s Take
I typically tend to get a hangover from drinking too much wine, but I was pretty clear-headed the next morning. Perhaps, this is a sign that the wine does not have that much preservatives. Just for reference Vivino users rate its Pinot Grigio at 3.5/5, which is a pretty decent rating for its price. Most people do not head to Venice to buy wine, but if you’re there, why not check out El Vin Del Paron. I was also impressed because this shop kick-started our journey of ‘Never having a bad wine in Italy’.
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Visit El Vin Del Paron for affordable wine in Venice
Address: Campiello Rialto Nuovo, 516, 30125 Venezia VE, Italy (3 min walk from the Rialto bridge) and the Hotel Riva Del Vin
Opening hours: 11am – 1pm, 5pm – 7.30pm, closed on Sundays and Mondays
If you’re looking to buy a normal ticket to the Doge’s Palace, I would recommend that you go on the secret itineraries tour of the Doges Palace instead. It cost €28 for an adult ticket, which is much higher compared to the entrance fee for other attractions in Italy, like the Milan Cathedral. But through the tour, you can learn about the workings of the Doge’s Palace, and see places which are not opened to those who purchase the normal ticket at €25. As compared to the Secret Itineraries tour, the normal ticket gives you access to the St Mark’s Museum, which according to Google, looked quite ornate. But we preferred to have a guide and it was worth it. Here’s why you should do the Secret Itineraries tour of the Doges Palace in Venice. It will take about 1hr 30 mins.
5 reasons to take the Secret Itineraries tour of the Doges Palace in Venice
1. Our guide was knowledgeable and fun
The facade of the Doge’s Palace. Some parts were burnt in a fired and had to be restored, hence they look different from the rest of the building.
Our guide was a Venetian lady who told us interesting facts and peppered the tour with jokes along the way. She started off at the square telling us about the big rooms in the palace, which are designated for voting and for political meetings of Venetian noblemen. At one point, one of the meeting rooms was the biggest in the whole of Europe.
I forgot who this dude was but I thought it was a good picture.
Our guide also mentioned that it was difficult for local Venetians to continue staying in Venice due to the high cost of living. In addition, there is also a high cost involved to do restoration and repair works as workers will have to take a boat over. This explains why we saw plenty of empty homes when we ventured to a more local part of the island in the south-east. It was much more enjoyable listening to our guide as opposed to simply reading the short English descriptions of the paintings.
2. We got to see Casanova’s cell and learn how he escaped
A prison cell we visited during the Secret Itineraries tour of the Doges Palace in Venice. Casanova’s first cell was pretty dark – I don’t have a picture.
Giacomo Casanova is one of Venice’s most famous residents. He was known for his romantic liaisons with women from all walks of life, including nuns. Our guide explained that women were sent to be nuns back then out of poverty. For some, it was not of their choice. In the midst of saving them, Casanova had several affairs and was imprisoned for an affront to religion.
I think this was Casanova’s cell. The chair is not part of it, obviously.
The subject of Casanova’s escape was a controversial one. It was said that during one of his walks, he found a metal spike which he brought with him back to his cell. He started digging a hole in the wall as a means of escape. But on the night before he planned his escape, he was moved to another holding cell, and had to bribe the warden of that time to cover up (the hole) literally. He was placed in another holding cell where he enlisted the help of his cellmate, Father Balbi, a renegade priest, to dig a hole for their escape.
While Casanova’s account is suspenseful, the guide said that it was to be taken with a pinch of salt, as there was no hole to be found when the cells were checked after his escape.
3. Political prisoners were left in the basement, which could flood during heavy rains
You can see that the prison cells at the basement is about half the height of an average room.
It is most unfortunate if you were convicted of treason back in those days. We were told that political prisoners, especially those who were about to be executed we placed in cells at the basement of the palace. As it rains frequently in Venice and floods often, the cells would be flooded and water levels could rise to one’s chest level. It was a dire situation especially if the cells were flooded and the prisoners had to share it with rats. According to our guide, rats outnumber the number of humans in Venice currently.
4. It is better to be a Chancellor than a Doge
The Venetian Archives – three copies of each document had to be made each time. Fires were common so one copy would be held outside the palace.There was a sign for each doge. Except two doges who were convicted of treason.The architecture was shaped like a ship too.
We visited the Office of the Great Chancellor, who is said to be in charge of all the archival records in Venice. The Chancellors had a nice office with wooden beams supporting it. Apparently, it could get quite hot during the summer. That said, it was still much more spacious that the prison cells below. Our guide said that it was much better to be a Chancellor as compared to being a Doge, as the Doge was expected to furnish the palace with his own wealth. In comparison, the Chancellor knew all the secrets of the city, and as a result, was paid well. His appointment was for life and his office was also quite big, by standards in the past.
A fire burnt the archives. This room was rebuilt by Venetian Shipbuilders. Hence the door looks a tad odd, but it’s actually a self-closing door found in ships.The office of the Grand Chancellor.
5. We learnt that a bridge built 500 years ago can be sturdier than one built 10 years ago
The Attic where you could see the wooden beams.
The Secret Itineraries tour led us to the attic where we could see the foundations of the palace, held steady by blocks of wood. It was then where our guide remarked that it was quite steady, as compared bridges which were built 10 years ago to serve incoming tourist traffic.
The rope used for torture in the Doge’s Palace. It was behind a room of the public servant’s office. The torture was only done at night, when the public servant’s had gone home. The torture room also faces prison cells – as a psychological attack on other prisoners.This looks like a cupboard but it’s actually a hidden door.We entered from a hidden door into the gallery.
After the tour, we took a walk around the palace. The paintings and rooms in the Dodge’s Palace were impressive, decked in gold and paintings of epic battles. If the Cathedrals that we visited in Italy were meant to make people feel awe in a divine presence, the paintings and gold furnishings were meant to make guests feel impressed – it was almost intimidating. We particularly like the frescos on the floor, which were in the form of 3D shapes.
Love the 3D shapes.This too!The super ornate Chamber of the Great Council. Was getting a stiff neck from all the looking up.The Chamber of the Scrutinio
The Travelling Squid’s Take
For new visitors who are not familiar with Venice’s history, the Secret Itineraries tour will give you a glimpse into what was life in the past, away from the grandeur of the ceremonial halls. It was interesting to learn about how public servants were involved in the administration of Venetian governance, as well as experience the prison cells which used to hold people convicted of political crimes and Casanova.
Reasons to get around Italy by train with Italo [Photo credit: By Rob Dammers – Rome Termini NTV Italo, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=82160665]We recently took a trip to several Italian cities – Milan, Venice, Tuscany, Naples and Rome. Getting around Italy is not difficult and I was impressed by my commuting experience on the Italo trains. In gist, the ride from city to city was quite pleasant and comfortable. Most of the trains left on time and the tickets were relatively cheaper than its competitor, Trenitalia. Here are 5 reasons to get around Italy by train with Italo.
About Italo
Photo credit: Maksym Kozlenko / CC BY-SA
The company operating Italo is Nuovo Trasporto Viaggiatori, Europe’s first private operator of trains which can go up to 300km/h in speed. NTV was given the licence to compete with the state monopoly, Trenitalia in 2003. Italo then caused train prices in Italy to fall, making it a very popular mode of transport as compared to budget airlines. While we were waiting for our train, we saw multiple connections to major cities, both by Italo and Trenitalia.
5 reasons to get around Italy by train with Italo
1. Trains are fast
I am used to taking high-speed trains in Asia and wasn’t aware that there was a high-speed rail option in Italy. Therefore, I was very surprised when the Italo train from Naples to Rome went at a speed of 300km/h. To be honest, it was quite rocky on the train with the carriage swaying side to side, but I fell asleep soon after.
2. Tickets are relatively cheaper than Trenitalia
When we did a search, Italo tickets were relatively cheaper by about €3-€5 as compared to Trenitalia. You can do a search with a third-party train reservation site like Rail Europe and make the purchase directly on the Italo site as that does away with the third-party fee.
Different ticket classes
Italo has its seats divided into three classes, Smart, Prima and Club. Prima typically costs a little more than Smart. It comes with more legroom and a complimentary beverage and snack as well. You get to choose from a packet of biscuits or peanuts. I would recommend booking a Prima seat especially if you have large suitcases, as there is more room for storage.
3. Italo trains are relatively newer
My point of comparison was the Trenitalia train we took from Florence to Pisa and back. I felt that the seats were slightly wider and the cabin was cleaner. In general, the cabin was also quieter but I guess that would differ from routes and specific instances.
4. Seats are comfortable
Apparently all Italo seats have a leather covering, which explains why it feels pretty cool. There are no strange stains to avoid, as you would have seen on other trains. We took both Prima and Smart cabin rides in Italo. The seats are the same, the only difference is the amount of leg room. I found both rides to be quite comfortable.
5. Trains tend to leave on time
In general, Italo trains leave on time, though they may get delayed due to railway congestion while approaching the station. One example is when we were travelling from Naples to Rome. The train left on time and travelled at 300km/h, arriving at our destination close to the stipulated time. However, we waited about 10 minutes before the train rolled into the Roma Centrale train station. An announcement was made to say that the train was delayed due to railway congestion, so I’m guessing that’s no fault of the rail operator, Italo.
The Travelling Squid’s Take
Hope you found the reasons to get around Italy by train with Italo useful. Getting to major Italian cities was easy through train connection and there wasn’t a need to fly. My only gripe is that the platform number for trains appears pretty late on the board, so you would need to stand in front of the train board for quite a while, waiting for the platform number to appear.
Which Cathay Pacific lounge should you visit in Hong Kong? Heres a picture of the noodle bar at The Pier.
In an earlier post, we reviewed Cathay’s Business Class lounge in Singapore, at Changi Airport Terminal 4, before its opening. We were told that many design features were modelled after Cathay’s flagship lounge, The Pier in Hong Kong. Therefore during our recent flight from Hong Kong to Milan, we booked ourselves onto Cathay business class. Unlike Singapore Airline’s SilverKris lounge in Changi which has just one lounge in T2 and T3, Cathay’s four lounges are spread across the one terminal in Hong Kong’s airport. I’m guessing this is for convenience due to proximity to various boarding gates. In this article, we will do our best to answer the question – ‘Which Cathay Pacific lounge should you visit in Hong Kong?’
Which Cathay Pacific lounge should you visit in Hong Kong?
We had a long stopover in Hong Kong recently and had ample time to visit the four Cathay Business Class lounges – The Pier, The Bridge, The Wing and The Deck. In terms of our lounge preference, The Pier definitely comes out tops and I would relish the opportunity to visit it again. The Bridge follows as second, followed by The Wing and then The Deck. Do check the opening hours of the lounges before going – they are not open 24 hours a day.
The Pier
After walking for 10 minutes from the security checkpoint, we arrive at The Pier.
Located between Gates 63 – 65, The Pier is Cathay’s flagship lounge. It is also the biggest, comprising a dining area, a bar for drinks, a noodle bar, and a tea room. Unlike the SilverKris Lounge in Changi which is designed to have wide open spaces, I like that the lounge was segmented into rooms, giving one a heightened sense of privacy. I found the design of the lounge very thoughtfully done too – marrying both oriental and contemporary touches. There were also many long tables and benches in the lounge, which made for a good place for families or groups of friends to get together.
Opening hours: Daily from 5.30am, closed at 00.30am
The seating area of the Noodle Bar.We ordered beef noodles and wanton mee. Both were very good.
The noodle bar is where you can get different types of noodles made to order, including noodles from the menu made on the spot. We tried the beef noodles, wanton noodles and dan dan mian (a type of noodle in peanut sauce). All were very good, but I got to say that the dan dan mian was the best of all. It was lightly spiced and you could taste the subtle flavours of the chilli and Sichuan pepper.
Also Dan Dan mian too.
While visiting Cathay’s lounge in Singapore, we were told that each of the green tiles of the Noodle Bar were different. Each tile was specifically sourced and arranged to give a certain aesthetic, with elements of wabi-sabi (imperfection). The little booth seating added to the private feel of the noodle bar. There was local craft beer available too.
Check out the green tiles. Each tile is different and they were selected to create a certain aesthetic.Craft beer to go with the noodles.
Food area and coffee counter
The coffee stand. (Where the delicious biscuits were).
You will see the coffee counter when you first enter the lounge. As it was late in the day, we did not try the coffee. But do try the biscuits – it was the best dessert I had in the lounge. There was also a buffet area which served hot food.
The biscuits were my favourite!The dining area at The Pier
Tea Room
A place to have tea and desserts.In general, the teas were quite diluted.
We had some tea from the tea room, which is a collaboration between Jing tea and Cathay. I do like Chinese tea and I regret to say that the tea was somewhat diluted. The ‘宫廷普洱 ’ gong ting pu erh (a high grade of Pu Erh tea) that I ordered was too light for my preference. So was the Organic Jade Sword tea which S ordered. There was hardly anyone in the Tea Room while we were there.
Love the design of the chairs too.The Tea Menu. I found the tea quite diluted in general.Apart from tea, there were juices available too. They were pretty good.The desserts were pretty good. I especially like the biscuits.
Rest areas and viewing gallery
The rest areas.
There are rest areas in the lounge which oversee the runway – great if you’re an aviation geek. I love the plush leather seats facing the runway. The design of Cathay Pacific’s lounge in T4 is very similar. The lounge also has 14 shower suites if you need a shower before a long flight.
Love these leather armchairs.The sockets which are not connected to a wall, but in the coffee table instead. Which Cathay Pacific lounge should you visit in Hong Kong? – My Answer would be – The Pier!
The Bridge
The reception at The Bridge – makes for a grand entrance.The Bridge had a more contemporary design than the other lounges.
The Bridge is located near gates 36. It has quite a grand entrance, as the reception area comes into sight as you take the escalator down. It was a quieter lounge – great if you would like to have some time alone. As there are fewer people there as compared to The Pier, it is a great place to finish work assignments during transit without getting disturbed. A point to note is that The Bridge closed pretty early while we were there, at about 11.30pm. We were directed to The Pier instead. There were 8 showers and we took a shower without the need to queue. As compared to the other lounges, I found The Bridge’s design to be the most modern.
The bar at The Bridge. It was pretty quiet hence I thought it would be a good place to have a drink.
Opening hours: Daily from 5.30am, closed at 00.30am
Work area if you need a computer.The selection at The Bridge seemed more appetising for some reason.Food served at The Bridge. Selection is similar.The Bridge – the rest areas were pretty empty when we were there. Which Cathay Pacific lounge should you visit in Hong Kong? The Bridge would be my second choice.
The Wing
The Bar at The Wing.
The Wing is located near Gates 1- 3. It was a lot busier than The Pier and The Bridge. I’m guessing because there were several red-eye flights departing from gates near that particular lounge. The Wing has 23 shower facilities. It spans over two floors and has a super long bar, which overlooks the tarmac. As The Wing is the first Cathay lounge to be built, it’s worth checking out, though I thought the space was a little too open.
Having champagne while at The Wing.There’s a wide range of magazines and newspapers at The Wing
Opening hours: Daily from 5:30am until last departure
The Deck is located near The Wing.The Deck resembles a casual living area.
The Deck feels as if you have stepped into the living room of a friend’s place. The set up is very much like a living room, with comfortable leather chairs surrounding a table in the centre. The Deck is probably the smallest of the four lounges. It has a small noodle bar and part of the lounge overlooks the airport terminal.
The deck – it was pretty empty outside.The noodle bar at The Deck.
Comparison between Cathay Pacific’s and Singapore Airlines’ flagship lounges
On many levels, I found Cathay’s flagship lounge The Pier to be much more comfortable than Singapore Airline’s SilverKris lounge in Changi. Don’t get me wrong – the SilverKris lounge is comfortable if you need a short rest before transiting on to another flight. The SilverKris lounge was built to accommodate a large number of passengers in a practical, business-like fashion.
The biggest difference is that Cathay’s lounge, The Pier, feels like a well-designed friend’s home. One which you wouldn’t mind arriving at the airport three hours earlier just to have a meal (from their noodle bar) and a cup of tea (albeit a watery one) at their tea room with some desserts. Aviation geeks would enjoy sinking into the rich leather couches of its viewing gallery at the lounge, which provides a bird’s eye view of the planes on the tarmac.
We found Cathay Pacific’s Business Class flight to be good as well, but it appears that more emphasis was given to its ground product (the lounges), as compared to its in-flight offering. The Cathay lounges stand out for me due to the subtlety in its design language and the attention to detail. It’s the feeling you get when you enjoy being in a place, but don’t quite know why until you spend some time to think about it.
Note: In recent weeks, Cathay faced strong headwinds due to the onset of the 2019 novel coronavirus which caused multiple flight disruptions around the world. We were one of the affected passengers as our flight from Rome to Hong Kong was cancelled, and we flew back to Hong Kong from Madrid instead. We can only hope that Cathay will be able to weather the storm and continue operating its lounges, which provide a charming and unforgettable experience for travellers.
