Author: phebebay

Four vineyards to visit in Montalcino Italy
If you’re planning a trip to Italy once it is safe to travel again, we recommend visiting Montalcino in Tuscany. It is about a two hour’s drive from Florence. There are four interesting wineries which you should definitely visit. Despite being known for their Brunello di Montalcino, the wines are different due to varying outlooks with regard to their wine-making techniques as well as the vineyard’s location in Montalcino. Here are four vineyards to visit in Montalcino Italy.

Four vineyards to visit in Montalcino Italy

1. Poggio Antico

Endless line of cypress trees.

If it came down to the crunch, between the four Montalcino vineyards we had visited during our recent trip, we enjoyed Poggio Antico‘s the most. They struck a good balance between tradition and innovation in their wine-making techniques and produced great wine, which is why a visit is highly recommended.

Poggio Antico is one of the highest altitude producers of Brunello di Montalcino, located at an average elevation of 480m above sea level. According to its website, the soil is rocky and calcerous (chalky), which makes for good drainage. Cover crops are used to aid moisture retention, increase biodiversity and regenerate the soil. The total property is 200 hectares, with 33 hectares cropped with Sangiovese.

Selection of Poggio Antico wines – the perfect gift.

Wines to get:
- We purchased the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino for €53 and it was exceedingly elegant, well-structured and balanced, yet still retaining it red fruit character after all those years – very much worth the price. The 2016 Madre which was priced at €28 was quite a steal. We also bought both the 2015 Brunello di Montalcino €47 and 2015 Altero Brunello €52 to keep.
2. Altesino

Some of Altesino’s brunello are also aged in French Oak barrels.

Altesino was bought over by wine investor Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini in 2013, who sold her stake in Italian pharmaceutical company Angelini after her husband passed away. Her most famous quote on this issue is “After pharmaceuticals, wine is the best drug”. The winery continues to follow the tradition set by the original management, while taking a forward-looking perspective, resulting in wine that retains the unique and high quality reputation of Brunello. Apart from its Brunellos with ‘cru’ status, Altesino also produces a regular Brunello di Montalcino, which is a blend of wine from several vineyards.

The selection of Altesino products, including olive oil and grappa.

Wines to get:
- We bought three bottles of the Brunello di Montalcino 2015 for €31 each and the Palazzo Altesi Super Tuscan for €18. We didn’t get the Montolsoli Brunello 2014 because the price of about €70 was similar to Antinori’s Tignanello but when S compared both wines, he found Antinori’s Tignanello to be a more well-rounded wine with better potential for aging. We also thought that Altesino’s Brunello di Montalcino 2015 displayed characteristics typical of a classic Brunello di Montalcino, and would make good gifts for friends.
3. Podere Le Ripi

You could see the Tuscan hills in the distant from Podere Le Rpi’s vineyard.

Podere Le Ripi probably had the most charming wine estate of all the estates we visited. Francesco Illy, the owner of the world’s famous Illy coffee brand, was said to have contributed to the design of the estate. Perhaps this is why Podere Le Ripi’s architecture was more rustic and homely than all the vineyards we’ve been to. It also had a focus on making wine with biodynamic methods, such as using compost as fertiliser and doing away with pesticides.

The wines we tried. The names were most interesting.

Wines to get:
- The tasting is €20 for three wines, or €40 for 5 wines, which is a little on the high side compared to Altesino and Poggio Antico. We ended up purchasing the Cielo d’Ulisse Brunello di Montalcino to cellar and the Sogni e Follia Rosso di Montalcino for more immediate enjoyment. In general, we found the character of the wines a little less complex compared to those we tried from the other vineyards we visited.
4. Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona

The wines we tried while at the cellar door of Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona in Montalcino.

If you enjoy classic Brunello di Montalcino wines, I’ve got to say that Ciacci produced one of the best wines we tried that day. The vineyard keeps to traditional Italian wine-making techniques with a touch of perfection – it is no wonder why its Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Pianrosso 2015 was awarded 100/100 (see number 14) by famous wine critic James Suckling. One of my favourite wines during the tasting was the Rosso di Montalcino (Rossofonte) – made with 100% Sangiovese, the Rossofonte led with classic Sangiovese red fruit notes, but was differentiated by its greater complexity, with a notable balsamic note. The soft tannins and fruit-forwardness brought out a subtle perceived sweetness.

Wines to get:
- At the end of the tasting, we purchased the Rossofonte for €21 and the Brunello di Montalcino for €39. The Brunello was very value-for-money as it would easily have been double the price should we have purchased in Singapore.
About Montalcino

Montalcino is in the province of Siena, located 80km from the south of Florence. It is known for Brunello di Montalcino, a highly sought-after red wine which is made with 100% Sangiovese. According to Wikipedia, Montalcino has one of the warmest and driest climates in Tuscany. As a result, grapes tend to ripen a week earlier than neighbouring areas. The terrain in Montalcino varies too – north-facing slopes receive fewer hours of sunlight and are generally cooler than the south-facing slopes. As a result, grapes planted on the north-facing slopes ripen more slowly and tend to produce wines that are more aromatic. Vineyards on the southern and western slopes receive more intense exposure to sunlight and more maritime winds, which produces wines with more power and complexity. The top producers in the area have vineyards on both slopes, and typically use a blend of both styles in their wines.

The Travelling Squid’s Take

Given the opportunity, I would love to visit many other wineries in Montalcino. Just visiting these four vineyards alone was an eye-opener – from learning about their vision and priorities to their wine-making techniques. It was a good blend of tradition to innovation, a must-visit if you enjoy Italian wines and would like to learn more about the differences between each winery.

Hope you found this write-up on four vineyards to visit in Montalcino Italy useful. If you have comments, please drop them in the box below.
June 28, 2020
Great New Apps for the London Bound

Whether you’re a Londoner by birth, a transplant who now calls the city home, or just a traveler who is looking forward to that upcoming trip to The Swinging City, you want to make the very most of your time there. London is so full of things to do, see and experience, and it could take even the most enthusiastic traveller years to get to it all! That’s one of the many reasons why people love London so much; you’ll never get bored as there’s so much to do, no matter what you’re into. Here are some new Apps for the London bound.

The Big Ben – London

Photo Credit: Dominika Gregušová

If you’re looking to get organized when it comes to experiencing the best London has to offer, why not look into some of the amazing apps that Londoners and keen UK travelers alike are using to make the most of their time in the city!

Gone are the days of bulky maps and city-guides; these days tourists and Londoners alike use apps to navigate their way around, find places to enjoy the best in culture, food, drink and fun. Here are some of our favorite picks for the best apps in London. These are guaranteed to help you make the most of your time in the Greatest City.

Mapping and Travel Apps

There are multiple map apps for travelers who enjoy having a handy map in their pocket to help them navigate as they travel – or just for the person who likes having GPS to help them with directions. You could use your handy map app that’s already installed on your phone, but there are lots of other more detailed and comprehensive apps that are great for tourists and those who like to do a lot of sightseeing.

Citymapper and TubeMap are both great ones that are very popular; while CityMapper focuses more on the entirety of the city and related travel, including the option to switch modes from cycling, Uber, walking or the tube, TubeMap contains detailed maps that are specific to the tube that that method of travel. TubeLive is another great app that gives you real time updates for arrival times and more. If you’re really into mapping apps and want to go that much further into detailed information, interactive and 3D maps and even historical background for the tube, check out Station Master, a fun and interactive app that can give you all the information on the tube and other travel methods across London. This is a great app for the travel enthusiast who loves to know the history behind London travel.

You can’t go wrong with the Uber app; as with many other big cities, Uber is the king when it comes to tourist travel/driving apps. The app is easy to install and use and you can book a car within minutes.

Another great app for those who don’t like traditional methods of travel is Virtuo, a mobile rental service that you can book straight from the app. These bookings can be done right from your smart phone head of time so the moment you step off the plane or out of the hotel, the car is waiting for you!

The Heathrow Express is a shuttle service that can take you from the airport to wherever you destination may be; their app is a great way to organize these shuttles/drivers right from the plane. Not only can you book a car or train faster, you can check travel times/arrivals and get discounts on fares.

Mobike is a great app for cycling enthusiasts who want to navigate/visit the city on their bike. With mappable routes, information about which areas are cycling friendly, and the ability to book a rental bike right from the app, it’s the perfect service for any cycling enthusiast.

Hospitality and More

For those who are just visiting the city, you want to make the most of your stay without having the hassle of overpaying for hotel rooms or car services, or spending days on the phone/computer trying to make arrangements. Making bookings via an app is the very best way to get great deals and get them quickly. And there are tons of hospitality apps to choose from.

Volo is one of the more popular apps that can help you book rooms, plan your vacation and even fill out a travel journal for various big cities including London. Also popular are the usual apps, such as Kayak, Travelocity, and Booking.com, which is the most used travel app worldwide.

If you’re looking for a more London-specific experience and want to book some places off the beaten path, a great app to start with is the Visit London app, which can help you plan out your entire vacation experience, including finding some really great gems to stay in, weather you’re into backpackers’ hostels, bed and breakfasts, or a traditional hotel experience.

Historical Sites and Sight Seeing

There is so much to see and to do in London. Whether you’re a movie buff, into history, love shopping or just want to soak up as much culture and fun as you can, there are plenty of apps to download that can help you make the most out of all of your experiences in London.

For the movie lover in your life, download the Movie Map London app, which can pinpoint various locales in London where famous and/or popular movies have been filmed.

If you love to attend outdoor concerts and fares or just keep track of all the social, arts and musical events happening around town, download the Culture Key app, which keeps track of all the various concerts, events and soirees that are happening around town.

The StrollOn app gives you live weather updates and great information about which trails and areas are nice for a stroll, with built-in audio tours for the solo traveler.

For the historical and/or horror enthusiast, check out the Hollow Body app – this virtual tour app, created with the Sherlock Holmes exhibit via the Museum of London, is an immersive experience of narrative and creepy, mysterious sound that will give you an eye opening, spooky experience you’ll never forget.

Food and Drink

You simply can’t visit London without enjoying some of the amazing culinary delights and hitting up one of the historical pubs around town for a delicious, frosty brew. Luckily, there are apps for that, too!

The OpenTable app can help you find the best restaurant based on specific criteria – what’s closest to you, what takes reservations, what type of cuisine you like, price points, and so on. So no matter what type of dining you’re looking for, OpenTable can help you find it quickly and easily.

The London’s Best Coffee app is a must for any coffee drinker who can’t live without their cup of Joe. This app showcases both the big and popular coffee chains as well as smaller, independent coffee shops in your area. You’ll never be stuck without coffee in London again.

The BritishSt.Food app is an interactive app that not only recommends great eateries and establishments, with emphasis on food trucks and street vendors, but allows you to get in on the fun by sharing pictures, reviews and more of delicious street food. For the food truck enthusiast, this is the THE app you want.

TablePouncer is a great app for the traveler who is always looking to get the best deals, especially when it comes to food. TablePouncer can help you find last minute cancellations on reservations as well as great promotions and deals at various eateries around London, so you can get a great table AND a great price.

Miscellaneous Apps

If you’re staying in London for a while and are looking for an easy, convenient and safe way to handle your cash/funds, the Monzo app is an extremely helpful and secure way to do so. This money managing app can help you with a variety of needs, including bill-splitting and tipping information, updates on your bank account and how money you’re spending, and a map of transactions, as well as currency converting info and more. This is a great way to avoid having to carry cash everywhere you go while still keeping track of how much you’re spending while on vacation.

London Architecture Guide app is great for the architecture enthusiast who loves to visit the big city for the buildings and architecture (trust us, there’s lots of those out there, and London does not disappoint in this department)! This app provides you with a detailed list and maps to various locales in the city with beautiful, historic architecture.

For the sports fan, the Thames Clippers app is a great way to get quick tickets, check out sporting schedules, and keep up with the latest scores and information on your favorite London team.

If you’re planning a trip to London, or you already live here and just want to expand your horizons a bit, download one or all of these popular London apps today, to make the most of your time in this fantastic, historical, friendly city.

This is a contributed post.

June 23, 2020
Beware! How we got ripped off by a female taxi driver in Naples

Naples – some streets are better than others.

During the earlier leg of our trip, we traveled to Milan, Venice and mostly around Florence. It was a rather pleasant experience – similar to travelling in other cities in Western Europe. But when it came to Naples, S and I were warned of taxi scams and pickpockets, and braced ourselves. Never did we expect to get ripped off by a female taxi driver in Naples.

From the Naples train station to our hotel

Our hotel was less than 2km from the train station, but we had to hail a cab given that we were carrying 12 bottles of wine in each of our suitcases following our trip to Montalcino, Italy’s premier wine region. Getting a cab from the Napoli train station was somewhat stressful. The taxi stand was not clearly marked out. When we did eventually find it, a swamp of taxi touts surrounded us, aggressively telling us to get into their taxi.

After finally getting into one cab, S insisted that the driver use a meter, but he declined. The driver told us the price – €13 or €30 (till today, I heard the former while S heard the latter). A tensed discourse with the taxi-driver soon ensued with S refusing to pay €30 for a 2km trip, while I was very puzzled as to why he would get so worked up over €13. When we finally alighted (the ride was about 5 minutes), the driver charged us €10. We expected the official rate to be much lower, but the amount was simply not worth arguing about.

From the Naples train station to our hotel

In view of this somewhat negative experience, we thought that we using a taxi-booking app would be better, for the short trip from our hotel to the train station. Interestingly, while Uber is available in Milan and Florence, it isn’t available for use in Naples. Only Free Now, a taxi booking app can be used.

We thought that the price would automatically be calculated with the app, thus avoiding the chances of being cheated. When the cab arrived, our driver was a young Italian woman in her twenties. I thought she must be pretty brave to be part of this operation filled with somewhat dodgy taxi-drivers.

She had some difficulty locating us and S used his auto-roaming to call her. When she arrived, she said she could deduct that phone call from the bill. That sounded pretty suspicious now that I think about it (which taxi driver would offer to compensate you for a phone call? Hmm..). She acted professionally, offering to lift our suitcases into the car boot.

Now we were extremely familiar with the route from our hotel to the train station. It was a straightforward route – all she had to do was to do a U-turn, travel down a straight road and we would have arrived at the train station, all in less than 5 minutes.

Driving through the small alleys – definitely not expected when all you want is to get to the train station. [How we got ripped off by a female taxi driver in Naples]
But instead of doing a U-turn, she turned into a narrow alley and started driving through the smaller streets. She also asked “How long have you been in Naples?”, to which I naively replied, “Just two days”. Five minutes into the journey, we were still driving through the narrow streets and I gave S a ‘something-is-not-quite-right’ glance. But thinking that we were using the app which calculates the fare automatically, we decided to leave it to her ‘expertise’ to get us there. 3 more minutes later, I couldn’t take it any longer and voiced loudly, ‘Wow we’re taking a while to get there’. There was no response from our driver.

Two minutes later, we arrived at the Naples train station. “€25 please,” our driver said, in a rather professional manner. Now we were not about to accept that, especially since our hotel was a 5-min car-ride from the train station. “Excuse me..” I interjected while clearing my throat. “There must be a mistake – our taxi ride from the train station to the hotel was €10.”

“There is nothing I can do, this is the price,” said our driver rather defensively.

“Now I am not sure, but it took us 5 minutes to get from the train station to our hotel. I am not sure what sort of route you took, but €25 is just too much. It’s more than double of what we had paid.”

“There’s nothing I can do, this is the price,” she retorted.

I glanced at S. We were very close to leaving Naples. If possible, we wanted to leave the city as quickly as possible, without any problems. I decided to put my bargaining skills to use – skills which have gone rusty since I stopped travelling around India and South-east Asia.

“The maximum we will pay is €20, and that is double of what we paid for the same trip.”

She nodded and made a gesture that we should hand her the money.

It didn’t help that we did not have small change on hand – only a €50 note to pay for our cab fare. (We didn’t think of getting small notes as we thought the fare would be charged to S’s credit card.) S handed her the €50 note and got back €30.

We got out of the car. She offered to lift the suitcases from the car boot. We said no thanks. I rolled my eyes. Gave a wry smile which also meant that we would probably not return to Naples if we can help it.

Getting ripped off by a female taxi driver in Naples – Goodbye, forever.

The Travelling Squid’s Take – Getting ripped off by a female taxi driver in Naples

The train station is one last interaction you’ll get with a place. To get ripped off along the way to the train station leaves a bitter taste in one’s mouth, which can be hard to erase even after having one of the most delicious Neapolitan pizzas our planet has to offer. I may be exaggerating but the lasting impression I have of Naples is that its people are relatively dishonest. It would be wise to be on your guard during your visit.

As for our dishonest taxi-driver, I’m sure that her short-term gain of an extra €10 would not have been commensurate with the long-term loss of potential tourist revenue to the city. All I can say is that dishonesty is bad business, especially for a city which depends on tourism for a large part of its economy. We shall see.

June 14, 2020
Recommended: Visit to the cellar door of Podere Le Ripi in Montalcino
You could see the Tuscan hills in the distance from Podere Le Ripi’s estate.

Of the four Brunello di Montalcino vineyards we visited, Podere Le Ripi had the most charming wine estate. In terms of architecture, I would say that while Antinori was more grand and impressive, Podere Le Ripi’s design stood out for me as it had a different theme – something more rustic, homely, and yet thoughtful. Interestingly, Francesco Illy, the owner of the world’s famous Illy coffee brand, is the owner of this vineyard. It had a focus on making wine with biodynamic methods, such as using compost as fertiliser and doing away with pesticides. Here’s more on our visit to the cellar door of Podere Le Ripi in Montalcino.

The estate Francesco bought came with forests, trees and different types of vegetation.

About Podere Le Ripi in Montalcino

In this vineyard, the stones and rocks were lined up. You could tell that their wine-making approach was very different.

Francesco Illy bought Podere Le Ripi in 1998. The land mass was about 130 acres, and it came with forests, olive groves and loam, clay and limestone slopes which were ideal for growing wines. In 2003, Illy began producing a Brunello di Montalcino called Lupi e Sirene. According to Wine Spectator, Illy was devastated when he was told by a Burgundy wine-maker that good wine could only be made with vines more than 35 years of age. He didn’t wish to wait until he was 90 years old to make a good wine.

At the Bonsai Vineyard of Podere Le Ripi.

In response to this challenge, he started the Bonsai Vineyard, planting 62,500 vines per hectare, leaving the vines a mere 16 inches apart. To put this in perspective, other growers in the region tend to plant at a density of around 5,000 vines per hectare. This forced the vines to grow deeper into the ground for nutrients. After harvest, 6,000 bottles of Bonsai were aged in barrel for 3 years. This initial release of Bonsai was also priced at €135 per bottle, putting it in the upper echelons of the market at that time.

Notice how the plans were tied to vertical bamboo sticks, as compared to vineyards we visited in New Zealand where the vines are spread out horizontally.

Can’t get enough of the Tuscan hills.

The vines were treated very differently from the ones in New Zealand, such as at Felton Road in Central Otago where we did a wine tour. In New Zealand, the vines were relatively spread out, giving them more room to grow. Here, the vines are grown very densely.

Love this little dome which leads you from the underground cellar to a restaurant on top.

The cellar is designed by Francesco’s son, Ernesto who happens to be an architect. The structure spirals down the hillside and also contains a domed aging cellar. The building had a distinct lack of straight lines. Wine Spectator says it took four years for masons to lay 1 million bricks proportioned according to the “golden ratio“—a ratio commonly observed in nature, which is aesthetically pleasing to the eye and is often used by architects and artists.

The team managing Podere Le Ripi is pretty young – with an average age of 27. I encourage you read more about their wine-making techniques and vineyards – it’s pretty interesting.

Visit to the cellar door of Podere Le Ripi in Montalcino

The selection of wines we tried.

The cellar door is located where the restaurant was, above the cellar. These were the wines we tried:
- Amore e Follia – Toscana 2016 €28
  Love and Madness
  Made with 90% Syrah, 5% Merlot, 5% Sangiovese, the Toscana was fermented and macerated for 25 days in open-tops oak tuns. The easy-drinking wine was medium-bodied and fruit-forward.
- Sogni e Follia – Rosso di Montalcino €33
  Dreams and Madness
  Made with 100% Sangiovese, the wine was fermented with indigenous yeast in cement vats for 20 days. It was a fruit-forward wine with good structure and a touch of minerality.
- Cielo d’Ulisse – Brunello di Montalcino €57
  Ulysses Sky – Ulysses is a famous Greek hero known for his participation in the Trojan War. Made with 100% Sangiovese, fermented in stainless steel tuns, the wine was aged for 36 months in oak and a minimum of 12 months in the bottle. It showed its youth with its bright red fruit, a balanced wine with rounded tannins.
- Amore e Magia – Brunello di Montalcino 2015 – €100
  Love and Magic
  The wine was fermented in oak barrels for 50 days. It was an elegant, fruit-forward wine accompanied by a hint of savoriness as well – a noticeably richer wine compared to the others we had tried.
- Lupi e Sirene – Brunello di Montalcino 2014 – €200 for 1.5 litres
  Wolves and Mermaids
  Fermented in oak tuns for 25 days, this wine was aged in oak barrels for 28 months, followed by 12 months in cement tuns and a minimum of 8 months in the bottle. It had berry notes with a touch of minerality. Compared to the wines from the 2015 vintage, this seemed more ready to drink. An elegant wine though a little pricey in my view, not helped by the fact that only the magnum was in stock.
The Travelling Squid’s Take

Our host Giulia was both professional and passionate – her knowledge about Podere le Ripi extended from its history, to its architecture, wine-making techniques and architecture. We were fortunate to have her as our guide.

The tasting is €20 for three wines, or €40 for 5 wines, which is a little on the high side compared to Altesino and Poggio Antico. We ended up purchasing the Cielo d’Ulisse Brunello di Montalcino to cellar and the Sogni e Follia Rosso di Montalcino for more immediate enjoyment. In general, I found the character of the wines a little less complex compared to those we tried from the other vineyards we visited. It was also priced at a premium, I’m guessing due to their strict adherence to biodynamic methods and the cost of maintaining the estate.

In general, I think our visit to the cellar door of Podere Le Ripi in Montalcino was worth it as I found their biodynamic wine-making techniques particularly interesting. It was also a very lovely wine estate. The wine was a little more expensive than average, but worth the experience. Do sign up for a tasting if you plan to head to Montalcino.

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Visit to the cellar door of Podere Le Ripi in Montalcino
- Address: 53024 Montalcino, Italy
- Tel: +39 0577 835 641
- Site/Reservation: https://www.podereleripi.com/wine-tasting-tour-montalcino#wine-tour-and-tasting
- Email: INFO@PODERELERIPI.IT
May 31, 2020
Recommended: Having pizza at Esterina Sorbillo in Naples
Having pizza at Esterina Sorbillo in Naples. It’s Conan’s favourite, so we had to go.

After having pizza at L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Naples, we wanted to have one more pizza meal before we left Naples. We decided it would be best to have pizza at Esterina Sorbillo in Naples as it was recommended by our favourite TV show host, Conan, during his rather epic trip to Italy. In this video here with his assistant producer Jordan Schlansky, Conan can be seen enjoying the pizza but not so much the company. Click on the link to find out more ヽ〳 ՞ ᗜ ՞ 〵ง.

Conan and Schlansky at Esterina Sorbillo |
Photo credit: Sorbillo NYC’s Facebook page

About the pizzeria Esterina Sorbillo

Esterina Sorbillo is known for its Neapolitan fried pizza, which is made with a light dough with wholemeal organic flour. It was founded by Gino Sorbillo, whose grandparents used to run a pizzeria in 1935, in the center of Naples. Gino was the 19th of 21 children and learnt pizza-making secrets of the city through the ‘poor alleys of the city’, which were said to be ‘generous and accessible to all’. The restaurant is named after Aunt Esterina Sorbillo, who was the eldest among the 21 children. She also lived a short distance from Gino Sorbillo’s first restaurant.

Esterina Sorbillo is known for its Fried Pizza which uses a very light dough and wholemeal organic flour. Recently, it has also released new and exclusive varieties such as pizza with fried beef patties and Neapolitan tarallo (an Italian snack) with almonds and pepper.

The Ambience

Ambience at Esterina Sorbillo

It was about 3pm in the afternoon when we arrived in Naples after a morning visit to Pomepeii. We were starving and were glad that we did not have to wait to enter Esterina Sorbillo. We also had to eat pretty quickly as the restaurant was supposed to close at 3.30pm. (Sidenote: We left at 3.40pm and the restaurant was still busy.)

I definitely preferred the ambience of Esterina Sorbillo in Naples more than L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele. It was what you would expect from a restaurant – a place I would definitely visit with a big group of friends and dine for a longer duration.

The Menu

The menu at Esterina Sorbillo – I’m not sure who this lady is – if you do, please let me know!

What I also liked about Esterina Sorbillo was the variety of pizzas on their menu. There were all sorts of combinations, including pizzas with a wide range of hams, cheeses and herbs. I opted for something simple – Marinara. The price of this pizza was €3.50. The meat pizza was about €7.50.

Marinara

The Marinara – delicious! I love the rich tomato flavour.

The Marinara tasted as good as it looked. It was bursting with the fresh taste of tomatoes – you can tell that the tomatoes were one of the best in Italy. I also loved how they were generous with the basil as well as the raw garlic as a topping. The meat option was very good too, especially if you’re feeling indulgent. Definitely worth a shot.

S’s pizza – we don’t have the name, only that it was delicious.

The Travelling Squid’s Take

I found the ambience at Esterina Sorbillo to be rather cosy. The pizzas were also true to the taste of the land. For instance, the taste of the tomatoes were very rich, bursting with umami flavour. The basil also went very well with the pizza. If I were to compare Esterina Sorbillo with L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele, I would still say I prefer the latter as there was a special edge to its sauce. It had a nice tomato and umami flavour, which I suspect could have been brought out by anchovies. But don’t take my word for it – try both if you can, and visit during non-peak hours.

***

Having pizza at Esterina Sorbillo in Naples
- Address: Piazza Trieste E Trento, 53 Via dei tribunali, 80100, Naples Italy
- Tel: +39 081 442 1364
- Website: https://www.sorbillo.it/antica-pizza-fritta-zia-esterina-sorbillo#
- Opening hours: 11.30am – 3.30pm, 6.30pm – 11pm
May 27, 2020
Is L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Naples worth visiting?
Is L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Naples worth visiting?

Neapolitan pizza originated in Naples in the late 1800s. The classic pizza is made up of the simplest ingredients – tomato, mozzarella cheese and basil. One of the most famous pizzerias in Naples is L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele. The pizzeria was founded in 1870 and gained popularity especially after Julia Roberts had a slice of pizza there, in the film ‘Eat, Pray, Love’. Such star power has resulted in long lines at L’Antica Pizzeria especially during peak hours. For a pizzeria with only two items on the menu, one may wonder: is L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Naples worth visiting?

Is L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Naples worth visiting?

The neighbourhood where L’Antica is in – it is slightly more peaceful than other streets.

We visited L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Naples in late January this year. We arrived at the pizzeria at about 2pm in the afternoon. Thankfully, the line wasn’t too daunting. We got a number and waited outside the pizzeria for about 15 minutes before our number was called. It was a pretty relaxed neighbourhood and noticeably cleaner than other streets in Naples.

One of the slightly cleaner neighbourhoods in Naples.

As mentioned earlier, there are only two items on L’Antica’s menu: Pizza Margherita which comes with tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, fresh basil and extra-virgin olive oil, and Pizza Marinara which is made up of tomatoes, oregano and garlic. S and I both ordered Pizza Margherita, because a pizza doesn’t seem as complete without cheese =).

L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Naples – it packed all the way in.

History

L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele has been run by the Condurro family since 1870. Since then, the restaurant has been run by five generations of pizza chefs. The Condurro family wanted to stay true to Neapolitan pizza flavours, hence the menu only revolved around “Marinara” and “Margherita” pizzas.

Fun facts about Neapolitan pizza

Did you know that the origins of New York-style pizza is Neapolitan pizza? The pizza was brought to the US by Italian immigrants in the 20th century. According to Wikipedia, Neapolitan pizza has to be made with either San Marzano tomatoes or Pomodorino del Piennolo del Vesuvio tomatoes which grow on the volcanic plains near Mount Vesuvius. Traditionally, mozzarella cheese is made from water buffalo milk from Naples’ Agerola commune. The art of making Neapolitan pizza has also been recognised as part of UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage.

The Pizza

We placed our orders and the pizzas were served to us within five minutes. I recalled it to be extremely affordable. A normal-sized pizza was priced at about €4.50, which was quite a steal given the size! The dining area was no-frills, made up of marble-top tables and wooden stools.

Is L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Naples worth visiting?

The biggest highlight of L’Antica’s pizza is probably its pizza dough. One way to tell how good the dough is is from observing leopard-spotting on the crust. In the picture above you can see many brownish-black spots on the dough. The dough was chewy, had a great texture and went very well with the red sauce on the pizza. The mozzarella cheese added a depth of flavour along with the olive oil and the basil leaves which were scattered on the pizza. It was a great experience. I only wished they were a tad more generous with the basil.

The second pizza spilling out of the plate. It has a very rustic look.

The Travelling Squid’s Take

Is L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Naples worth visiting? I would say yes given its history and traditional techniques used in pizza-making. (No judgement if you’re there because of the film, ‘Eat, pray, love’. s( ^ ‿ ^)-b).) I’m just glad I had the chance to try another popular pizza place in Naples for comparison. The pizzeria is Esterina Sorbillo – the pizzas are slightly more expensive but you get a lot more variety.

If you’re wondering what is the difference between the two, I think the red sauce in L’Antica’s pizza is a lot more savory and flavourful, while Sorbillo’s has a stronger tomato taste. As for which is better, I would say, to each his own. I was certainly attracted to Sorbillo due to the wide selection of pizzas they had on the menu. The dining atmosphere was definitely more chic too. That said, I do really like L’Antica’s dough and red sauce, so it’s a draw between the two. In general, you should visit both pizzerias if you have the time. Don’t be intimidated by the lines – just try to visit during off-peak hours!

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L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Naples
- Address: Via Cesare Sersale 1/3, 80139, Naples Italy
- Tel: +39 081 553 9204
- Website: http://www.damichele.net/ (Unfortunately it is not in English)
- Opening hours: 11am – 10.30pm
May 24, 2020
Baking a sourdough in Singapore – it’s tough but satisfying
Baking a sourdough in Singapore (Take 2) – The final product!

I love eating sourdough and used to think that it could only be baked in professional kitchens. I thought Singapore’s warm and humid weather wasn’t conducive for fermentation, but our yeast (Princess) seems to be thriving under these conditions. Before we go into the process, I would like to give a shoutout to my mum-in-law for guiding us throughout the process. She has a decade of baking experience but even so, found the sourdough baking process to be quite challenging. To be honest, I would never have thought about baking a sourdough in Singapore, but I’m glad we did. It’s tough but satisfying, and if you’re looking to do work on something new during this period of partial lockdown, this could be an option.

Before you consider jumping in, I’d say that say that it takes a very long time (about 2 days) to make a good sourdough. There’s a lot of waiting time. It involves feeding the starter, mixing, folding and shaping the dough and baking it in a dutch oven. The dutch oven can get pretty hot (about 200 deg c in temperature) so you have to be extremely careful as well.

It all started when Friend W dropped off a sourdough starter (Princess) at our place one day. I returned from a run and was startled to see a brown jar of paste-like substance sitting in the fridge. Turns out Princess was a mature starter – Friend W had been feeding her for about 9 days and she seemed mature enough to be used in bread-making. I ended up watching plenty of sourdough videos that night. Of all, I think Bingeing with Babish (above) was pretty helpful, and so was I Love Cooking Ireland.

We have completed two sourdough attempts so far. Take 1 had a cake-like texture – the air pockets were very close to each other. It was chewy and lightly acidic, but did not have the texture of a good sourdough. Take 2 had more air pockets and a good crust, which was possibly due to the dutch oven. The post below will cover measurements for Take 2 since it had a much better outcome. The trick is to start small, as the dough is more manageable in small quantities.

Baking a sourdough in Singapore

1. Making your starter

Friend W’s starter – say hi to our Mother starter, Princess.

As shared earlier, my mother starter (Princess) came from Friend W, but it’s relatively easy to get started on your own too. Friend W got her recipe from I Love Cooking Ireland, just in case you’re keen.

2. Feeding

Feeding of starter – we took a bit of Princess and placed it in a glass jar with some flour and water. Princess 2 doubled to twice the size in about two hours! The rubber band is where we first started. You have to burp it (her) from time to time.

For Take 2, we took out about 60g of starter from Princess 2, placed it in another sterilised jar and added the same amount of flour and a similar amount of water to it. Gave it a good mix and waited about 3-4 hours for it to double in size. You can tell if the yeast is active by the number of bubbles in the mixture. To determine if it’s ready, drop some starter into a bowl of water. If it floats, it is ready to be used.

The starter will float if it’s ready.

3. Mixing

You will need:
- 60g – sourdough starter
- 252ml – water
- 310g – bread flour
- 80g – wholemeal flour
- 8g – salt
1. We added the bread and wholemeal flour to the starter first. Made sure it’s well incorporated.
2. Once that was done, we added water and mixed it thoroughly with our hands.
3. Add salt at the end, as that causes the moisture to come out.
4. One that is done, let the mixture rest.
The dough after mixing.

4. Folding and proofing

It gets smoother after several folds.

This process took about 4 hours, with us folding the dough every 30 minutes. Essentially, you stretch a bit of the dough out and fold it back to the center. Do it for about 1 minute each time. Given the consistency of the dough, no kneading was required. We did not use a mixer for this attempt and it actually turned out better too.

5. Shaping

Baking a sourdough in Singapore – shaping is really important.

Shaping can be challenging especially if it’s your first time. You want to keep the bubbles but make sure it’s well-folded in. Bingeing with Babish demonstrates that really well.

Shaping the dough is really important.

6. Baking

Baking a sourdough in Singapore – the Dutch Oven was literally red-hot.

We heated up the oven at 220 deg c for about 20 minutes. Next, we placed the Dutch oven in for 20 more minutes. When that was done, we placed the sourdough in with baking paper as well. Before it went into the oven, we sprayed some water over it and scored the bread in the middle.

The sourdough after 23 mins in the oven.

At the 23 min mark we took the dutch oven out, removed the lid and put it back in the oven. After 20 minutes it was quite well done. (If you like something lighter than what is in the photo, you can reduce the baking time especially during the last stretch.)

Baking a sourdough in Singapore

Upon cutting the loaf the next morning, we were pleasantly surprised by the air pockets especially in the middle of the loaf. I thought we did well. ᕕ( ՞ ᗜ ՞ )ᕗ

Check out the air pockets!

The Travelling Squid’s Take

Baking a sourdough in Singapore is really time-consuming. If not for the inability to travel, our partial lock-down and Friend W’s surprise starter Princess, we would definitely not have considered working on this. But I’m glad it turned out well. There’s always room for improvement. We’re not professionals, so if you have tips on baking sourdough at home do share them in the comments section below. A big thanks in advance!
May 19, 2020
Why having dinner at Trattoria Cesarino in Florence is a must
Dinner at Trattoria Cesarino in Florence

One of the best meals we had in Florence was at Trattoria Cesarino. The restaurant was located a ten-minute walk from our little apartment B&B The Attico. What was special about this restaurant was that it served up hearty, delicious Italian food, in a rather casual, down-to-earth setting. It seemed like the go-to-place for week-day perk-me-up dinners or meals for a lazy weekend. I also enjoyed the complementary shot of Limoncello served at the end of the meal. Here’s why having dinner at Trattoria Cesarino in Florence is a must.

Why having dinner at Trattoria Cesarino in Florence is a must

The Food

Trattoria Cesarino’s English menu

For non-Italian speakers, the restaurant has an English menu – do request for one when you enter. (We got the English menu only during our second order.) TLDR, Trattoria Cesarino serves a wide variety of Tuscan traditional dishes – great if you’re new to the area and cuisine.

Appetizer – Croutons with veal liver, balsamic vinegar and onions – €7

Croutons with veal liver, balsamic vinegar and onions

This was quite similar to the crostini we had tried in Venice, which were made of slices of bread with toppings on it. It was my first time trying veal liver and it was delicious. It wasn’t too gamey and the liver went well with the basalmic vinegar and onions.

For sharing – Traditional Tuscan beef stew with Cannellini beans – €11

Traditional Tuscan beef stew – probably the highlight of the night

We ordered a traditional Tuscan beef stew to share – which was one of the best stews we had in Italy. The stew was extremely deep in flavour, possibly due to the amount and quality of red wine which went into it, as well as the crushed black peppercorns which were not harsh to chew on and were a nice touch. Unlike the richer fat-based beef stews that we were used to, this stew was packed with a deep, wine-based flavour.

Taglierini with artichokes and octopus – €13

Taglierini with artichokes and octopus

This has got to be one of my favourite pasta dishes in Italy. The Taglierini pasta looks like a familiar noodle you would get in Singapore (think mee-kia in minced meat noodles) but it’s different. I would say it’s slightly thicker and more al-dente. It went very well with the octopus and artichoke. The octopus was very flavourful and was not tough at all, while the artichoke gave the dish a slight acidic note which made it all very appetising. Lovely.

Pappardelle with beef gravy – €13

Pappardelle with beef gravy

I recalled this dish to be super yummy too. The beef ragu was seasoned well and the pappardelle was al-dente.

Limoncello to end the meal

The complementary limoncello to end the meal was a nice touch. It was a tad sweet for my liking, but still good.

As we were leaving for Naples early the next morning, we didn’t have room for a bottle of wine. But Cesarino’s staff offered us some complementary Limoncello – how could we say no? (For the uninitiated, Limoncello is made with lemon zest soaked in a spirit like vodka, and is typically served as a digestif in Italy.) To be perfectly honest, it was a tad sweet for my liking, but it was still a good way to end our last meal in Florence, and in Tuscany.

The Travelling Squid’s Take

Dinner at Trattoria Cesarino in Florence – nice way to end the Tuscany leg of our trip

Trattoria Cesarino was a lucky find and I was glad that our last meal in Florence was this satisfying. The restaurant’s decor was simple, homely and the food absolutely delicious. The bill came up to €50 per person, which was quite reasonable given the amount of food we ordered. If you’re keen to try some local Tuscan fare, Trattoria Cesarino is definitely the place for you. Enjoy!

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Dinner at Trattoria Cesarino in Florence
- Address: Via Giovan Battista Niccolini 16-r, Florence Italy
- Tel: +39 055 247 9169
- Opening hours: 12pm – 3pm, 6pm – 11pm
- Website: http://www.trattoriacesarino.it/en/
May 18, 2020
Four options for low-cost airport parking

Photo by Anna Gru on Unsplash

For many, extremely expensive airport parking has resulted in high overall travel cost. However, this cost can be reduced with four useful options. One way is to look for the most suitable parking option that fits your travel budget well.

Four options for low-cost airport parking

Parking alternatives

Looking for the best parking alternatives can be certainly be of help. By hiring airport cabs, you can make great savings with airport parking. In the case of airport cabs, you do not need to bother with parking as that will be arranged by the transport provider. In fact, this is one of the reasons why most people are now taking cabs to the airport rather than driving there. Here, the option of rideshare is also available to you.

Renting out your car out

You can rent out your car after dropping it off at the airport. You not only save on parking, but get some rental revenue as well. You can also get in touch with many car-renting companies for the best rates.

Parking at a discounted rate

If you are looking for discounted airport parking, you should check out the discounts available in advance. The discount amount or rate might vary from one site to another, therefore you should compare the rates. Sometimes, these discounts are provided in the form of coupons. Sometimes, multiple bookings can also allow you to receive more discounts.

Nearby reservations

Nearby reservations can be challenging especially when you make a last-minute search. Therefore, you are recommended to make the search in advance for a hassle-free journey at the end of the day. Some airport hotels also offer long-term parking.

You can choose any of the above options as per your convenience, requirement and budget.

*This is a contributed article.

May 18, 2020
Touring The Epic Glaciers Of Alaska

Alaska Glaciers

As the planet continues its warming cycle, the magnificent glaciers of Alaska are at perilous risk. The most northern state has over 100,000 glaciers covering over 3% of the current land space. There are currently only 616 named glaciers in Alaska and more than three-quarters of these curious natural phenomena are located inside National Parks.

One of the pleasures of travel is the opportunity to see and visit new and unusual places. With over two million tourists heading to Alaska every year, the popularity of the remaining glaciers has become epic in proportion. With glaciers melting at an unprecedented rate, many travelers are anxious to get a glimpse at the crystalline blue ice structures before they are gone.

While planning your Alaskan vacation, your first priority after booking your accommodations in one of the rustic cabins at the Baycrest Lodge should be to book a glacier tour. There are many ways to see the glaciers to suit any taste and desired level of adventure. You can cruise the shores, get out in a sea kayak, and even hike along the top of a glacier yourself. Let’s take a look at some of the grandest and most spectacular glaciers that can’t be missed on your trip to Alaska.

Glacier Bay National Park

You can get the most bang for your glacier touring buck with a visit to Glacier Bay. This National Park is home to over 50 individual glaciers of all shapes, orientations, and sizes.

Most of the 400,000 visitors to the park see the glaciers via the decks of cruise ships. The area is well known for its glacial calving activity and the presence of a variety of wildlife including grizzly bears, seals, and whales.

Spencer Glacier

Sit back and enjoy your journey to the Spencer Glacier by train. This is the only way to see this deep blue glacier and lake. Once you arrive you can choose to hike onto the glacier or float gently along the Spencer lake shores on an exhilarating rafting trip.

Worthington Glacier

Nestled in the heights of the Chugach Mountains, the Worthington Glacier is a favorite of snow lovers. Due to the record amounts of annual snowfall in the area, the Worthington glacier is not melting as quickly as some others in the state. You can take a short hike or an ice climb out onto the glacier once you arrive after a short drive from Valdez.

Columbia Glacier

On the eastern reach of Prince William Sound, the Columbia glacier is one of the most actively calving glaciers in the state. It has been dramatically retreating for over two decades.

Huge slabs of ice and snow routinely crash down into the sound, making your day cruise a dramatic and startling journey. You can take a day cruise that will let you get up close to the 400-foot walls of the outer edges of the glacier.

Matanuska Glacier

In less than a three-hour drive from Anchorage, you can enjoy a day of hiking on one of the largest glaciers in Alaska. The Matanuska Glacier is a favorite of casual hikers and tourists that want to feel the ice beneath their feet. Take a guided hiking tour, clamp on a set of crampons and do some ice climbing or float along the edge of the glacier in a raft.

Alaska has so much to offer even the most seasoned world traveler. Your chance to see and feel these rapidly disappearing monsters of snow and ice is getting smaller each year. Book your trip to Alaska today so that you don’t miss your chance to see some of the most magnificent glaciers remaining on the planet today.

*This is a contributed post.

May 13, 2020