Author: phebebay

10 ancient ruins to see in Pompeii

In an earlier post, we wrote about whether Pompeii is worth visiting from Naples. We shared that a trip is highly encouraged given Pompeii’s historical and archaeological significance. What’s interesting is that the entire archaeological area has mostly been restored. You will feel as if you’re walking through an ancient civilization given the scale. The ruins of Pompeii spans 66 hectares, so do set aside at least half a day to explore the site. Here are 10 ancient ruins to see in Pompeii.

10 ancient ruins to see in Pompeii

1. Casa del Menandro (The house of Menander)

The House of Menander. Photo credit: http://pompeiisites.org/

According to Wikipedia, Casa del Menandro is considered to be the wealthiest property in ancient Pompeii, covering an area of 1,800 sqm. The property was found to be intricately decorated with art pieces and had a unique architectural design. Therefore, archaeologists assumed that the owner could be an aristocrat or politician, with an avid interest in art and design. The owner’s identity has also been a source of debate, as many Romans had invested in holiday homes in Pompeii due to the warm Mediterranean weather. Till today, it has not been established if the owner of the villa was a local Pompeiian or a foreigner.

2. Temple of Apollo

Temple of Apollo, Pompeii (Photo credit: By General Cucombre from New York, USA – Pompei 5058Uploaded by Markos90, CC BY 2.0)

According to Wikipedia, the Temple of Apollo was built in Pompeii in 120 BC. It was the town’s most important religious building, based on the religious following of Apollo which had origins in Greece.

How did Deadalus find his way to the Temple of Apollo in Pompeii?

How did Deadalus find his way to the Temple of Apollo in Pompeii

In 2017, there was an exhibition by Polish artist Igor Mitoraj held at Pompeii, featuring several mythological sculptures. At the Temple of Apollo, the sculpture of Deadalus was featured, which later became a permanent fixture after being gifted to Pompeii by the Mitoraj Foundation. According to Pompeii Superintendent Massimo Osanna, the permanent feature of the sculpture Deadalus was in line with the site’s philosophy to maintain Pompeii’s image as a contemporary location.

4. Forum at Pompeii

The Forum in Pompeii
(Photo credit: http://pompeiisites.org/)

According to the Pompeii official site, the Civil Forum is the focal point of the city, where the market, shops places of worship, justice and administrative buildings are located. From the picture above, looks like a simple open area shaped in a square. The Forum was modified in the 3rd and 2nd century BC to align with the axis of the square. The façade of the Temple of Jupiter is aligned with that of Mount Vesuvius.

5. House of Vettii

House of Vettii in Pompeii
(Photo credit: http://pompeiisites.org/)

According to the Pompeii official site, the house is considered to be one of the richest and most famous in Pompeii. It is said to be under the protection of Priapus, the god of prosperity, symbolising the economic prosperity of the owners, the brothers Aulus Vettius Restitutus and Aulus Vettius Conviva liberti, who were freed slaves and became rich through trade. The appearance of the house was later changed to make way for a large garden with statues and jets of water.

6. Forum Baths

The Forum Baths in Pompeii. (Photo credit: Klook.com)

Located behind the Temple of Jupiter, the Forum Baths were founded by a colony of veterans. Women’s and men’s quarters had separate entrances. The men’s section had an apodyterium (dressing room), used also as a tepidarium (for medium temperature baths), frigidarium (for cold baths) and calidarium (for hot baths). Significant effort was put to decorating the rooms. There was also an area for storing clothes and a bronze heater for heating.

7. Theaters

Theatres in Pompeii – this is probably the Odeon.

There are two types of theaters located in Pompeii – Odeon, the small theater, and the larger Grand Theatre. The Odeon was probably used for the most popular theatrical genre at that time – miming, as well as musicals and concerts. The structure was also covered by a roof to improve acoustics. According to Pompeii’s official site, the plaster of the external masonry retains the graffiti left by spectators of the shows. Some of this graffiti were traced to regions far away from Pompeii.

The Grand Theater was built by leveraging the slope of a hill for the construction of the auditorium. The staircase was separated into three areas with corridors, which were in turn divided into five sectors, to be accessed by a passage with a barrel vault. Velarium was a type of awning used as a cover during warmer days. Comedies and tragedies of Greek-Roman tradition were performed at the Grand Theater. Interestingly, the Grand Theatre was the first large public building completely freed from the deposits of the eruption.

8. House of Faun

House of Faun, Pompeii
(Photo credit: By Porsche997SBS – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0)

The House of Faun is one of the largest and most impressive private residences in Pompeii and houses many famous pieces of art. The site got its name from a bronze statue of a dancing faun (a mythical half-human, half-goat creature) located in its premises. According to Wikipedia, it is considered to be one of the most luxurious aristocratic houses in Rome, and reflects the period better than most archaeological evidence found in Rome. The building suffered damage from an earthquake in AD62 but was repaired and used till the eruption in AD79.

9. Vineyards

From the vineyard, you can see Mount Vesuvius. We visited in winter hence the branches are bare now.

To be honest, the archaeological aspects of Pompeii can get a little overwhelming after some time. It was extremely refreshing to see a vineyard at the far end of Pompeii overlooking Mount Vesuvius. It was drizzling earlier on and the sun had just come out when we arrived at vineyard. Unfortunately, to enter the vineyard, you will have to make an appointment.

As with most sites in Pompeii, the vineyard has historical roots. Through archaeological investigations and botanical studies, vine roots were detected and so was the support for the vines. This proved that a wine culture existed in Pompeii during its rise.

Today, the vineyard is operated by Mastroberardino, an established Italian winery. The project, Villa dei Misteri, was started in 1996, when the company was approved by the Archaeological Superintendence of Pompeii to restore Pompeii’s viticulture. The wine, Mastroberardino – Pompeiano Villa Dei Misteri Rosso is rated 4.2 out of 5 on Vivino, which is an impressive rating especially for a wine grown in volcanic soil. Made with 90% Piedirosso and 10% Sciascinoso, this wine also fetches a hefty price of over USD200 for the 2008 vintage.

10. Amphitheatre

Pompeii’s amphitheatre

The Amphitheatre in Pompeii is significant because it is is the oldest surviving Roman amphitheatre which is built of stone. The Colosseum in Rome postdates the one in Pompeii. In recent years, apart from being an object of archaeological study, the amphitheatre has been used for concerts and other public events. While Pompeii’s Amphitheatre is smaller in scale, I found it to be grand and cosy at the same time. It is no wonder why artistes would choose to hold concerts there.

The vineyard is located really closely to the amphitheatre

The Travelling Squid’s Take

Pompeii is an interesting attraction – I strongly recommend that you spend at least half a day there. To me, the best site in Pompeii is the vineyard, as making wine in volcanic soil is challenging. In additional, I am also intrigued to taste the wine of this significant location. Hope you found this list of 10 ancient ruins to see in Pompeii useful – do drop a comment if you have other recommendations.

May 10, 2020
Is Pompeii worth visiting from Naples?

Where the peasants lived.

Pompeii was like no other attraction we had seen in Italy. First, it was massive – we spent about an hour walking from end to end, stopping along the way to view the interior of various houses and buildings. Second, it was a great place to let your imagination run while – thinking of how the people of Pompeii had gone about their lives centuries ago. Pompeii is located an hour away from Naples, if you go by regional train. Is Pompeii worth visiting from Naples? I’d definitely encourage you to do so.

Daedalus Pompeii, a bronze statue by late Polish sculptor Igor Mitoraj. After a one year exhibition in Pompeii, it was gifted to the ancient city of Pompeii and will remain there permanently.

About Pompeii

After the eruption, human bodies which remained started to decay in the ash. The outlines were used by archaeologists to make moulds, showing how Pompeiians were like in the final seconds of their lives.

According to Wikipedia, Pompeii is a famous ancient city which was buried under 4-6 metres of ash after the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD79. As most of the ancient city was covered by ash, the city provided visitors a view of Roman life, with details of how its people had gone about their daily lives. Due to the fertile volcanic soil, Pompeii was a wealthy city, allowing for modes of relaxation, such as bathhouses, a vineyard and an amphitheater.

Little plants were grown here, in what used

Pompeii is a popular tourist attraction, visited by more than 2.5 million people per year. The ticket price was €18 for an adult ticket, which was one of the most value-for-money attractions we paid for in Italy, given the number of sights available.

Is Mount Vesuvius extinct today?

From the vineyard, you can see Mount Vesuvius

You may wonder if the serene snow-capped volcano overlooking the vineyards is extinct. The unfortunate answer is no. But according to Oregeon State University, Vesuvius has erupted about three dozen times since 79 A.D., most recently from 1913-1944. The 1913-1944 eruption is thought to be the end of an eruptive cycle that began in 1631. It has not erupted since then, but Vesuvius is an active volcano that is likely to erupt again.

So why is Pompeii worth visiting from Naples?

1. Pompeii is one-of-a kind, different from other attractions in Italy

An attraction – one of its kind.

After visiting countless cathedrals and museums in Italy, Pompeii was a refreshing change of scenery. Walking through an actual ancient site looking at where people lived, held forums, performances and worshiped was what attracted me to Pompeii. I appreciated the effort gone into restoring the site, and thought the ticket price of €18 was well spent.

2. It’s a good break from Naples, which can be chaotic at times

Compared to Naples, Pompeii felt like a calming oasis.

To be honest, Naples can be unnerving, especially when you find that your ticket attendant at the subway does not return you the correct change. (It feels worst when you find out that it is intentional). More on that in a separate post to come. In gist, if you’re looking for a break from chaotic Naples, Pompeii is the place for you.

3. Travelling there is quite straightforward

Pompeii Scavi – the train station.

Travelling to Pompeii from Naples is straightforward – I will include the instructions of how to get there in a separate post. Just take note that the regional train will be covered with graffiti. While we were on the train, we did receive some uncomfortable stares as we were Asian, and COVID19 was prevalent in China then. But taking the regional train is still much easier than if you were to drive a couple of hours back and forth from Rome.

The Travelling Squid’s Take

Visiting Pompeii has been my childhood dream. Since I read about Pompeii through a children’s encyclopedia gifted to me on my 8th birthday, I’ve always been curious about what it was like living in an ancient Roman civilisation many years ago. Is Pompeii worth visiting from Naples? I’d say it was a worthwhile trip. Stay tune to learn about the 10 ancient ruins to see in Pompeii.

May 6, 2020
Success! Moving out of my apartment in Beijing during COVID19

Moving out of my apartment in Beijing during COVID19

For those renting an apartment overseas, COVID19 must have been quite a heartache, especially if you’ve returned home and left the apartment vacant while still paying rent. I was one of those affected. Since returning home for the Chinese New Year holidays in mid-January 2020, I have not gone back to my apartment in Beijing.

I initially thought that it would be fine to return to Beijing in mid-March, as the number of COVID-19 cases were starting to fall. But the number of cases started picking up across the rest of the world. On 27 Mar 2020, China announced a temporary ban on all foreign visitors, including those with valid visas and residence permits.

I was pretty anxious and texted my university for help, asking if they could assist with negotiations with my housing agent for a lower rental fee under these special circumstances. However, I was told that this was not possible, but one possible option was to sublet my apartment. I did not want to do so as I felt that it was an additional issue which I had to manage. It was also hard to do remotely.

Moving out of my apartment in Beijing during COVID19

I figured that the best option available to me was to cancel the rental contract and pay the cancellation fee of one month’s rent (this seems to be a standard clause in most Beijing rental contracts). As for my belongings, I sought the help of my classmate Friend X who is currently in Beijing to help with the move. Friends C and V also shared the contacts they used when moving out of their apartments, which were a big help. Here are two options, should you need to move out of your apartment in Beijing during COVID19.

Option 1 – Engage an ayi (helper) to help with packing your belongings

One of the options I had was to engage an ayi to help with packing up my belongings. The next step was then to move them to Friend M’s place, as she was overseas and had her lease till June 2020. I ended up choosing this option as the storage facility in Option 2 was in Shun Yi, a distance away from downtown Beijing. In addition, this particular ayi was a recommendation of Friend C and she did seem very trustworthy and professional.

Option 2 – Engage a professional mover to help with packing and moving the items to a warehouse at Shun Yi

Friend V had used a professional moving company (CIM Movers) to assist her with the move. She had bulkier items like furniture, so it made sense for her to store the items at a warehouse. As I had smaller items which took up about 2-3 suitcases in space, the price CIM Mover quoted me was RMB1,400 for the move (this includes packing of items) and RMB300 per month for storage.

Day of the move

To enter my apartment block, I first had to inform the neighbourhood committee that Friend X was coming to help with the move. I did so a day before, and the committee said that all I had to do was to write an authorization letter and send a picture of it to Friend X, who could then show it to the security guard. I also informed my housing agent of my intention to move out on that particular day and asked him to be present for the handover.

On that very morning however, my condo’s security guard would not allow Friend X to enter without authorization from the condo’s management. I ended up calling the condo’s management who told me that I had to get my housing agent to call them, before security could let Friend X and the ayi in. The agent ended up having to come down and it took Friend X about 40 minutes to enter ://

Thankfully, the rest of the moving-out process was smooth. It took about two and the half hours and my items were soon shifted to Friend M’s place. The operation ended before noon, which was a big relief.

Refund of my deposit

I had paid for rent up till 20 May 2020. As I officially moved out in late Apr 2020, I would have to forfeit May’s rent as part of the cancellation fee. However, there was still a possibility of getting back my deposit.

Apart from that, I was very concern that I would have to pay additional charges after handling over the keys, as I was not in person to debate with the housing agent. My previous experience with Beijing housing agents revealed their knack for charging a suite of hidden extra fees. However, the refund process was a smooth one and I got my money back within three working days of moving out. ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

My Beijing Apartment – you will be missed! [Moving out of my apartment in Beijing during COVID19]

The Travelling Squid’s Take

I am really thankful for Friends X, C, V and M’s help and support during this moving out process. I had spent days fretting about what to do with my apartment, and it was really kind of them to offer help in their own different ways.

To sum it up, COVID has been really unfortunate. But as Amy Santiago in the TV series Brooklyn Nine-Nine once said – ‘Life is unpredictable. Not everything is in our control. But as long as we’re with the right people, we can handle anything.’

If you’re planning to move out of your apartment in Beijing and need a professional mover or someone to pack your items, drop me a message at phebe@thetravellingsquid.com and I’ll be happy to share the contacts.

May 5, 2020
Three destinations in Asia to visit after COVID

Travelling may not be on the top of everyone’s minds right now, but there’s no harm to start thinking about it. After spending most of my days at home for the first part of this year, the traveller in me is itching to take the next plane out. But of course, I encourage everyone not to make any bookings till you’re certain that it’s safe to travel again.

If you’re in Asia, South-east Asia presents a great opportunity for travel. There’s a myriad of destinations for everyone with different budgets and preferences. Some of my favourite destinations include Bali in Indonesia, Bangkok in Thailand and Bagan in Myanmar. Of all SEA countries, I have not been to the Philippines and would love to visit one day. I also heard that Philippine Airlines has pretty good deals but I’ll probably save that till when the situation gets better.

Below are three destinations in Asia to visit after COVID, as their COVID situations have been improving – let’s hope they lift travel restrictions soon!

Three destinations in Asia to visit after COVID

1. China

The Great Wall of China [Photo by Hanson Lu on Unsplash]
China has been faring relatively well on the COVID front. Apart from the promising statistics, there’s so much good food and natural sights to visit. Language is definitely not an issue especially if you’re visiting big cities like Beijing and Shanghai. In Beijing, a visit to the Great Wall of China is a must. Apart from historical and nature sights, you can also find great restaurants and bars. China’s smaller cities like Tianjin and Dalian have their charm too – be it in terms of food, history and architecture.

2. South Korea

A memorable visit to South Korea

I’ve visited South Korea twice and each experience has been memorable. It seems almost yesterday that Friend H and I had visited the several great attractions in Jeju and Seoul. That aside, Korean food is most amazing and I yearn to return to Tosokchon Samgyetang which serves one of the best ginseng soups I’ve in Seoul. The kimchi there was quite remarkable too.

3. Singapore

Singapore’s Jewel [Photo by Joe Green on Unsplash]
I’m based in Singapore and I’ll admit that this recommendation is a somewhat biased one. But after staying at home for the past month or so, I’ve got to say that I’ve made my checklist of the places I would love to visit once our stay-at-home restrictions are lifted. Apart from the numerous ‘zi char’ (stir-fried dishes) eateries I will be visiting, I also plan to visit Singapore’s multiple hawker centers to savour local fare such as laksa, roti prata, rojak, curry puffs and my favourite cup of local tea (Teh-si-siu-dai).

The Travelling Squid’s Take

While travelling may not be possible in the next couple of months or even for the rest of this year, it’s always nice to have some destinations in mind, once borders open up and flights return to normal. It could be flights to Manila, China or South Korea – when that happens, let’s just hope that there are good deals up for grabs. In the meantime, stay safe and take care!

May 5, 2020
Visit to the cellar door of Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona in Montalcino
Love how this door way looks like a Slavonian Oak barrel.

Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona is a well-known winery in Montalcino. Recently its Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Pianrosso 2015 was awarded 100/100 (see number 14) by famous wine critic James Suckling, arguably one of its biggest achievements to date. We visited the Ciacci cellar-door in early February 2020, during winter. Similar to the other wineries like Altesino and Poggio Antico, we were the only guests. Here’s more on our visit to the cellar door of Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona in Montalcino.

About Ciacci

The estate is quite beautiful.

The Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona estate is located on the south east slope of the municipality of Montalcino. The lovely estate, spans 220 hectares of which 55.5 are used for vines while 40 are used for olive groves. From the carpark, you are greeted with a view of the Tuscan countryside – the rolling hills stayed fairly green even when we were there in winter.

The estate was originally purchased by the countess Elda Ciacci. In 1985, it was bequeathed to Giuseppe Bianchini, who was a farmer working at the estate. While he was at the helm, he adopted a forward-looking wine-making philosophy, increasing the quality and quantity of wines for export worldwide. Today, Ciacci is an internationally-renowned brand. Giuseppe passed away in 2004, leaving the business to his son Paolo and daughter Lucia.

Visit to the cellar door of Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona in Montalcino

The wines we tried while at the cellar door of Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona in Montalcino.

When we first arrived, we were greeted warmly by a member of the Ciacci staff. She had two interns shadowing her and asked if they could understudy the tasting process, to which we acquiesced. The wine-tasting commenced and we tried the wines below:
- Rosso di Montalcino – The wine was light-medium-bodied, fruit-forward and easy drinking, made with 100% Sangiovese.
- Rosso di Montalcino (Rossofonte) – Also made with 100% Sangiovese, the Rossofonte was a noticeable step up from the previous Rosso di Montalcino. Once again this led with classic Sangiovese red fruit notes, but was differentiated by its greater complexity, with a notable balsamic note. The soft tannins and fruit-forwardness brought out a subtle perceived sweetness. The Rossofonte was one of my favorites during the tasting.
- 385 Toscana Rosso – The 385 is a partnership between Ciacci and its Italian distributor Gruppo Meregalli. It is primarily made with Sangiovese blended with Merlot (20%), Ciliegiolo (10% ) and Syrah (10%), less fruit forward than its 100% Sangiovese peers, with added spice notes.
- Sant’Antimo FABIVS – Made with 100% Syrah, this was an earthy, medium-full bodied wine with notes of stone fruit. A smooth wine which is said to go well with roasted meats. Did you know that Ciacci was one of the earliest wineries in Montalcino that produced 100% Syrah wine? It was done by the owner Giuseppe Bianchini who had always liked the French grape varietal.
- Brunello di Montalcino – Easily the best of all the wines we had tasted. Aged 24 months in Slavonian Oak barrels followed by spending at least 8 months in the bottle, this was a very well-balanced wine even in its youth (we tasted the 2015 vintage) with tannins that were already well-integrated. It had the characteristic notes of red fruit, as well as spice and floral notes in the backdrop.
The Travelling Squid’s Take

At the end of the tasting, we purchased the Rossofonte for €21 and the Brunello di Montalcino for €39. The Brunello was very value-for-money as it would easily have been double the price should we have purchased in Singapore. Our host was very polite and waived the tasting fee to thank us for allowing the interns to observe the wine tasting process. In essence, if you’re keen to understand the wine-making techniques of a traditional winery in Montalcino, I’d encourage you to go on the tour and tasting as well. Have fun!

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The cellar door of Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona in Montalcino
- Address: Località Molinello, 53024 Montalcino SI – Italia
- Email address: info@ciaccipiccolomini.com [Do make a reservation before going.]
- Opening hours: Mondays – Fridays, 9am – 6pm [Closed on weekends]
- Tel: +39 0577 835616
April 26, 2020
Why lunch at Dario Cecchini Solociccia was my favourite meal in Italy
The butcher is located on the first floor.

If you happen to be in Tuscany visiting some wineries, I’d encourage you to book a lunch appointment at Dario Cecchini’s restaurant Solociccia (also known as Butcher’s Kitchen). Made famous by Netflix’s Chef’s Table, the episode talks about Dario’s history and how that impacted his philosophy towards meat. Be sure to leave ample time as the meal will take about 4 hours. For €30 per person, it was great value given the amount of food served. There was also an unlimited supply of table wine and you could bring your own wine without paying a corkage fee. What I really liked about eating here was Dario’s philosophy to using off-cuts in each dish to produce a simple yet delicious meal. Here’s more on why lunch at Dario Cecchini Solociccia was my favourite meal in Italy.

About Dario Cecchini

Dario Cecchini – he has very firm hands

Fans of the Netflix series Chef’s Table would know that while Dario Cecchini came from a family of butchers, he wanted to be a vet instead. This was because he loved animals and wanted to care for them, as opposed to… chopping them up and selling their meat as a form of income.

When he was young, Dario’s grandma used to cook all parts of the cow – its tongue, muzzle, and even legs to make flavourful broths and sauces. He only had his first sirloin at the age of 18. But while it was delicious and pretty amazing, Dario felt it wasn’t like his grandma’s cooking.

Dario went on to study veterinary science at a university. However, when he was halfway through school, his father passed away and he returned home to carry on the family business of butchering. It was his saddest moment as he had always wanted to be a vet.

Some would have accepted their fate and gone on with their lives, but Dario decided to build a philosophy based on his respect for animals. He wanted to give the cows sold to him the best life experience they could get. Good grass, a clean environment and space to graze. He also wanted them to die for a good reason. Not just for prime cuts of their meat, but also the off-cuts. The chewy parts with the tendon, all consumed without wasting one bit. In other words, he believed that utilising all parts of the animal made its life worth it.

Dario was responsible for bringing people’s attention to the enjoyment of off-cuts. He made them popular and opened the minds of many others to appreciate them – through simple ways of seasoning and cooking. The restaurant was a great way to see how the off-cuts were served. I should also add that Solociccia is located in a little town of Panzano, in Tuscany. It’s the perfect place to get a good view of the Tuscan hills.

Panzano

Why lunch at Dario Cecchini Solociccia was my favourite meal in Italy

The Menu – you can see the lunch and dinner menu by enlarging the picture here.

On the table

Vegetables to dip with olive oil, an the salt.

On the table, you can find some red wine, salt, olive oil, Tuscan bread, water and vegetables. You can also bring your own wine – there isn’t a corkage fee.

The table wine – it tasted great for a table wine.

Muzzle & Broth

Muzzle and Broth. Credits: Tripadvisor

It was like a salami, made with muzzle and a soup stock. There was a light gelatinous meaty flavour – delicious.

Spicy meat ragu on toast

Spicy meat ragu on toast – it was like a crostini

Like the crostini we had in at Ostaria dai Zemei in Venice, this was a simple dish, made with a simple meat ragu placed on top of toast.

Rosemary up the bum

Rosemary up the bum. Photo Credit: https://www.dariocecchini.com/

Rosemary up the bum is a made of semi-seared mince beef served with a twig of rosemary in the middle. I love the contrast in textures. The raw, and semi-seared beef went very well together. Unlike a steak tartare, you could tell that this had a little more tendon, but I appreciated the chewy texture and the fact that this was made with an off-cut.

Rosemary up the bum. The actual dish is a lot rarer.

Tuscan beans with olive oil

Tuscan beans with olive oil Credit: https://www.dariocecchini.com/

The beans were pretty tasty. It went well with the other dishes.

Butcher’s roast with steak sauce

Butcher’s roast with steak sauce

This was one of my favourite dishes of the meal. Unfortunately, each guest is only limited to three slices. Loved how it was cooked medium rare. I was looking out for the steak sauce and later realised that the sauce is actually the juices from the meat, ie. the steak was stewing in its sauce. The was meat near the cow’s butt, a part called round.

Boiled beef with vegetable salad

Boiled beef with vegetables.

The beef (made with meat from the shin) was quite tender. It was cooked with vegetables which gave it really good flavour. I liked this dish as well.

The Medici’s Balls

The pictures do not look appetising but thats the best I have.

Made with parts quite similar to the boiled beef, I really liked this meatball as it had a bit of tendon in it and was pretty crunchy. But I could only manage one ball as I was so full towards the end of the meal. It was of great texture and the tomato based sauce went well with it too.

Coffee and Olive oil cake

The coffee was really good. Yum.

It was about 4pm before the coffee and olive oil cake were served. I must say the olive oil cake was an eye-opener. They must have put a lot of oil because the cake was very moist. I also liked the sugar and raisins on top.

Olive oil cake

The Travelling Squid’s Take – Lunch at Dario Cecchini Solociccia

While Dario’ restaurant Solociccia has attracted plenty of compliments worldwide, from both Italians and foreigners alike. But his restaurant has some detractors as well – some who say the food wasn’t up to scratch, or that he wasn’t as attentive to customers. Well, my take is that do not go to Solociccia expecting fast, attentive service and prime cuts of steak. You will be disappointed. Our lunch was made with mostly off-cuts of the cow. It tasted different but great, and opened our minds to the possibility of using off-cuts in our cooking as well.

The atmosphere at the restaurant was great too. Dario’s clientele were mostly Italians who were taking a weekend trip up to the countryside. Back then COVID-19 had just started and we faced wary glances from people during our trip. But at Dario’s restaurant, we felt welcomed. Dario also personally came over before the last course of the meal and spoke to everyone (probably cracked a joke in Italian too). It was a memorable meal, probably the best I had in Italy.

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Lunch at Dario Cecchini Solociccia
- - Address: Via Chiantigiana, 5 ingresso da via XX LuglioPanzano in Chianti (Fi)
  - Tel: +39 055 852727
  - Reservation: https://www.dariocecchini.com/en/to-the-table/solo-ciccia/#book_solociccia [Click here]
April 20, 2020
Recommended: Visit the cellar door of Altesino in Montalcino Tuscany
It was very green for the season of winter.

During our recent trip to Italy, we chose to visit Altesino due to its legacy. Altesino is known as the first Brunello producer to introduce the ‘cru’ concept in the 70s, with its bottling of the single vineyard ‘Montosoli’ Brunello di Montalcino. ‘Cru’ refers to the production of wine from a specific or selected group of vineyards, which has a reputation for good terroir (soil) and by extension good quality. It is located a 40 minute drive away from Siena, where we spent the night after driving down from Florence. When we were there in February, it appeared to be a pretty warm winter as there was a lot more greenery. Here is more on our visit to the cellar door of Altesino in Montalcino Tuscany.

About Altesino in Montalcino

A picture of the owner – Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini who bought Altesino in 2013.

The winery was bought over by wine investor Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini in 2013, who sold her stake in Italian pharmaceutical company Angelini after her husband passed away. Her most famous quote on this issue is “After pharmaceuticals, wine is the best drug”. The winery continues to follow the tradition set by the original management, while taking a forward-looking perspective, resulting in wine that retains the unique and high quality reputation of Brunello. Apart from its Brunellos with ‘cru’ status, Altesino also produces a regular Brunello di Montalcino, which is a blend of wine from several vineyards.

Some of their production houses.

About the Montosoli vineyard when its cru Brunello di Montalcino (Montolsoli) wines are made

The soil of Altesino’s vineyards – you notice that they are of different textures due to the mineral composition.

Altesino’s Cru Montosoli vineyard spans about 5 hectares and is located to the north east of Montalcino at an altitude between 350 and 400 metres. The composition of the soil (marly limestone and siliceous limestone), its unique position and the particular microclimate (atmospheric conditions which different from surrounding areas) contribute to grapes which produce an extremely complex and elegant wine. Wine Spectator has even named Montosoli one of Italy’s most representative vineyards, which stands as testament to its ‘Cru’ status.

The cellar door of Altesino in Montalcino Tuscany

The cellar door looks like a warm, inviting living room.

When we first arrived, we were ushered to the cellar door to settle in. The tour commenced when we were taken to the cellar, where the wines were fermented and aged. To make a Brunello, the wine must spend a minimum of 2 years on wood, a minimum of 4 months in the bottle (6 months for Riservas), and be released onto market ta the 5th year after harvest. While Brunello di Montalcino is traditionally aged in large Slavonian Oak barrels, many wineries today, including some we visited like Altesino, Poggio Antico, and Podere Le Ripi, also make use of French Oak barrels.

Brunellos are aged in Slavonian Oak for more than 24 months.

In Italian winemaking, ageing wine in French Oak is a relatively modern technique, which imparts a distinctive vanilla note and somewhat leathery flavour. This was somewhat akin to French Bordeaux wines which I had more of a preference for.

Some of Altesino’s Brunellos are also aged in French Oak barrels.

We also had the chance to visit the Altesino production facility. Altesino is one of the bigger vineyards that we visited, as compared to the others such as Poggio Antico and Podere le Ripi.

Wine ageing in steel tanks.

Here is the full suite of Altesino products. We enjoyed the olive oil too and bought a few cans.

The whole range of Altesino products, including olive oil and grappa.

The Tasting

The last part of the tour was the tasting. It was held at the cellar door, which reminded me of the living room of a friend’s house.

The cellar door when the tasting is done.

Row of wines we had tasted.

These were the wines we tasted:
- Bianco Toscana IGT – Made with Vermentino, Viognier and Chardonnay grapes, this wine was quite aromatic and refreshing. Would make for a great drink for a warm afternoon.
- Palazzo Altesi – I enjoyed this wine pretty much – perhaps because it had been aged in French Allier barriques for 12-14 months. As a result, it was structured and had distinct notes of vanilla, quite similar to that of a French wine. The wine had also undergone partial carbonic maceration, a French winemaking technique in which whole grapes are fermented in a carbon dioxide rich environment prior to crushing. The wine tends to end up being more fruit forward and have softer tannins.
- Rosso di Montalcino – Produced with 100% Sangiovese grapes, the wine was aged in Slavonian oak barrels for eight months and placed on the market for a minimum of one year after harvest. The wine was medium-bodied with notes of red fruit – an elegant yet quaffable wine.
- Brunello di Montalcino 2015 – The wine was a classic – aged for a minimum of 24 months in oak and a minimum of 4 months in the bottle. It was a very bright, fruit-forward wine, which like most young Brunellos could use a lot more age. You could tell that it was a balanced and well-structured wine, with good potential for ageing.
- Brunello di Montalcino (Montolsoli) 2014 – As you may already know, the 2014 vintage for wines in the Montalcino region was difficult (possibly a euphemism), due to a very warm winter and cool spring. There was also a lot of rain that year, hence it was challenging for wine-makers. Compared to the Brunello di Montalcino 2015, this was earthier and more tannic.
The Travelling Squid’s Take – Visit to the cellar door of Altesino in Montalcino Tuscany

We eventually bought three bottles of the Brunello di Montalcino 2015 for €31 each and the Palazzo Altesi Super Tuscan for €18. We didn’t get the Montolsoli Brunello 2014 because the price of about €70 was similar to Antinori’s Tignanello but when S compared both wines, he found Antinori’s Tignanello to be a more well-rounded wine with better potential for aging. We also thought that Altesino’s Brunello di Montalcino 2015 displayed characteristics typical of a classic Brunello di Montalcino, and would make good gifts for friends.

In conclusion, a visit to the cellar door of Altesino in Montalcino, Tuscany, is helpful if you’re new to the Montalcino wine region and to Brunello. The wine tour was comprehensive and the tasting session was enjoyable, as our host was quite knowledgeable and could tell us about Altesino’s history, its vineyards and the differences in tasting notes. All in all, a good learning experience.

***

Visit to the cellar door of Altesino in Montalcino Tuscany
- Address: Località Altesino, 54 – 53024 Montalcino (Siena)
- Email: info@altesino.it [Do make a reservation here before going]
- Tel: +39 0577 806208
- Website: http://www.altesino.it/en/home-2/
April 12, 2020
10 super useful high quality products to buy on Taobao

I was back in Singapore in early this year, walking around Chinatown looking at the products on display. It dawned on me that all the knick-knacks sold there could be purchased from Taobao at a much higher quality for the price. It then got me thinking of the Taobao purchases I had made late last year in China, especially during Christmas when I participated in three gift exchanges. Therefore, I decided to put together a list of 10 super useful high quality products to buy on Taobao.

International shipping

Taobao has an international shipping option which makes it a lot more convenient to make purchases. The process is straightforward and you can follow the instructions here. Just make sure that the shop you’re buying from has an option for international shipping before making payment. One way to ensure quality is to buy from a brand’s official store on Taobao (官方旗舰店). You can also make purchases from Tmall. The prices tend to be slightly higher but you can be sure you are getting the real deal.

10 super useful high quality products to buy on Taobao

1. Feiyue sneakers

Feiyue sneakers – a great buy on Taobao. These lower cut ones are great for Singapore weather.

I didn’t use to wear sneakers but Feiyue shoes changed my mind. Feiyue has sneaker types for all seasons. I’m a proud owner of two pairs, one for use during the sub-zero temperatures of Beijing and another, for use during the warm and humid 30 plus temperatures of Singapore. There’s a layer of cushioning at the sole which makes it suitable for long walks. It also makes a good shoe for weight-lifting if you remove the cushion. The design is really cool and price is affordable.

These sneakers were the ones I wore during autumn, in Beijing. They were very comfortable! Definitely makes the cut as one of the super useful high quality products to buy on Taobao.

By the way, did you know that the original Feiyue brand in China does not have the rights to sell its shoes overseas? The overseas rights are held by a Florida footwear company, BBC International. There are also differences between Feiyue sneakers manufactured in China and overseas. For more on the intellectual rights dispute, check out the video below:

For Made-In-China Feiyue shoes, check out: https://world.taobao.com/dianpu/199301295.htm?spm=a21wu.10013406.0.0.7c4054a2AtFJ84

2. Xiaomi electronics

These Airdots are highly recommended! Photo credit: Xiaomi

Be it a phone battery pack, a hairdryer, wireless earphones or a automatic vacuum cleaner, the Xiaomi products were very durable. I’ve been using my Xiaomi battery pack for at least 3 years and it has not failed me. Likewise, Xiaomi’s Redmi AirDots, which was recommended by Friend R is of super good quality. It is also great for a workout and is extremely value-for-money, given its price of RMB200.

Check out: https://xiaomi.tmall.com/

3. Sweaters and winter wear

If you’re heading to a cold destination during the autumn or winter months, Taobao has good shops selling affordable winter wear. One way to identify good shops is to read the reviews and check out the ratings.

Check out: [For female sweaters, search for this shop in Tmall : 温泰服饰旗舰店]

4. DIY sweaters and shirts for friends

Thinking of cheeky slogans to place on sweatshirts as gag gifts? Taobao is the place for you! The print shop which Friend E and I used did it really quickly and the quality of the sweater was good. The print did not come out after many washes too.

Check out: https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?spm=a21wu.10013406.0.0.6dee3b20aCRN4i&id=603767797050

5. Bar-tending tools

Bartending tools, from Taobao

If you’re planning to learn how to make some serious cocktails, Taobao has a pretty awesome bar-tending set at an affordable price. Think a stirring spoon, a cocktail shaker, ice tongs, wine stoppers and a corkscrew. The whole set costs less than USD20 on Taobao.

Check out: https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?spm=a21wu.10013406.0.0.7753e047ahsapT&id=15129727398&skuId=4043228137461

6. Mechanical keyboard and mouse

The Rapoo V700 Mechanical Keyboard.

If you’re looking to get an affordable mechanical keyboard, you can get one for under USD20 from Chinese brand Rapoo. Rapoo is recommended by a gamer friend, therefore it must be of some standard. I also have a Rapoo’s mouse and it is fun to use.

Check out: https://rapoo.tmall.com/

7. Tea leaves

Buying tea from taobao – this brand Da Yi (大益）is very well known and one of my favourites. This higher grade of 宫廷普洱 (tea served at imperial banquets) cost me RMB400, a great steal especially since I got it on the 11.11 sale. The usual price was about RMB800.

I enjoy drinking pu-er tea and the tea cakes are really expensive in Singapore. During the 11.11 sale, I bought several tea cakes from 大益，中茶，下关沱茶 and 七彩云南。I thought 大益 and 中茶 had really good ripe pu-er (熟普洱) tea cakes, while 下关沱茶 had a nice smoky flavoured raw tea cake (生普洱). To find out the difference between ripe and raw pu-er, click here. Most people tend to be worried about not finishing the tea cake due to its size (357g). Rest assured you will be able to keep it for many years if you were to store it in a cool and dry place.

中茶七子饼茶 – this brand is not too bad, but i think Da Yi is better!

8. Tea utensils/ Cups and bowls

A teapot and glass I bought in Beijing.

I have since purchased many tea utensils from Taobao at affordable prices. If you do more research, you can also find nice cups, bowls and plates for your kitchen. While looking through various shops on Taobao, I found many bowls and cups that resembled Japanese utensils too, and those looked really chic. Remember to always check the reviews before making a purchase decision.

A Japanese-looking tea cup. Photo Credit: Taobao

9. Computer parts

Purchasing computer parts is not my domain of expertise, but a friend put together a functioning CPU with most parts bought from Taobao. It looked pretty cool too! Separately, I once had to order a Lenovo laptop battery from Taobao because the official Lenovo repair shop in Singapore told me that it would take 3 months to ship the replacement battery, at a price which was twice that of Taobao. My only option was to purchase a battery from Taobao and it didn’t fail me.

10. Multi-functional pot

A multi-functional pot which you can use to cook all types of food. Photo credit: Little Pumpkin

Friend D got me this for Christmas and it was a super useful gift. The pot is able to brew tea (there are settings for black, red and green tea), as well as steam eggs, cook noodles and make pear soup (a type of Chinese dessert which is great for winter). I have tried the egg and noodle function and it works really well because the pot heats up much faster as compared to my induction stove. For parents, there is also a setting for sterilizing baby products.

Check out: https://world.taobao.com/dianpu/459407264.htm?spm=a21wu.10013406.0.0.143c3186FLHzTl

The Travelling Squid’s Take

Taobao is a great place for buying most things. Having been a Taobao user for the past couple of months, I find that most of the things I have purchased from the site are not only well-designed, but of great quality as well. They are definitely worth checking out, especially if you’re unable to visit shopping malls at this point in time. Shopping online is also a strangely addictive process which can occupy many hours of your life, especially if you’re looking for something to do during the weekends. Enjoy!

April 1, 2020
Recommended – Visit to the cellar door of Poggio Antico in Montalcino
Endless line of cypress trees.

After our trip to Altesino, we went on to pay a visit to the cellar door of Poggio Antico in Montalcino. If it came down to the crunch, between the four Montalcino vineyards we had visited during our recent trip, we enjoyed Poggio Antico’s the most. They struck a good balance between tradition and innovation in their wine-making techniques and produced great wine, which is why a visit is highly recommended. While the wine from Antinori was very good too, our personal preference was for wine made from a smaller winery. Here’s more.

Love the cypress trees which line the road.

About Poggio Antico

Poggio Antico is one of the higher altitude wine producers.

Poggio Antico is one of the highest altitude producers of Brunello di Montalcino, located at an average elevation of 480m above sea level. According to its website, the soil is rocky and calcerous (chalky), which makes for good drainage. Cover crops are used to aid moisture retention, increase biodiversity and regenerate the soil. The total property is 200 hectares, with 33 hectares cropped with Sangiovese.

While most wineries such as Podere Le Ripi are focused on their owner, vision and heritage, there doesn’t seem as much said about the owners of Poggio Antico. An article by Decanter said that the winery was bought by investment company Atlas Investment in 2017. It was founded in the late 1970s, and was mostly managed by Paola Gloder, and her husband Alberto Montefiori. As of 2017, the wine is made with organic techniques.

According to Atlas Investment, Tuscany came out on top as the best long-term investment. The Brunello di Montalcino region particularly piqued their interest as it had a good potential for development. It was of the right size and had a good global following.

Visit to the cellar door of Poggio Antico in Montalcino

The cellar where the wine was aged in Slovanian Oak.

It was a 25 minute drive from Altesino and we arrived early. The drive was pleasant, with the road lined with cypress trees. We were first introduced to the Poggio Antico estate and then brought to see their cellar, where we were greeted by an assortment of large Slavonian Oak barrels, French barriques and tonneaux, stainless steel tanks and concrete vats. During our tour we were taught about some of the benefits of fermentation in concrete as compared to steel. Due to its larger thermal mass, concrete retains temperature better, and hence requires less energy to heat or cool. Additionally concrete is slightly porous, which naturally allows slow and gradual exposure to oxygen.

As with most wineries in Montalcino, aging of wine tends to be done in a Slavonian Oak barrel.

Steel tanks for fermentation

Bottling machine.

Love the tasting room – it’s really pretty.

The bar had a nice modern design.

Tasting

Appended are the prices for the tasting – we opted for the 5-wine option and were really glad to have tried 2 vintages of the Altero and the Super Tuscan (Madre).
- 3 wines (Rosso + Brunello OR Altero + 1 Super Tuscan) – €15.00
- 4 wines (Rosso + Brunello OR Altero + 2 Super Tuscans) – €18.00
- 5 wines (Rosso + Brunello + Altero (2 vintages)+ 1 Super Tuscan) – €22.00
- 6 wines (Rosso + Brunello + Altero (2 vintages) + 2 Super Tuscans) – €25.00
The wines we tried that day. Yum
- Rosso di Montalcino – Aged in French Oak tonneaux (larger barrels od about 300-750 litres) for 12 months, this Rosso was stronger than typical rossos, with notes of cherry and blackcurrant. A wine that was good even on its own.
- Brunello di Montalcino (2013) – Aged in the traditional style, for about 3 years in large 40hl Slavonian Oak casks and 18 months in the bottle, this wine expressed great minerality and the characteristic Sangiovese red-fruit flavours as well.
- Altero Brunello di Montalcino (2013) – Aged over 3 years in French Oak tonneuax, this wine had a noticeably fuller-bodied, richer character than the Slavonian Oak Brunello, imparted by the French oak, while still retaining much of the red fruit character, possibly due to its youth.
- Altero Brunello di Montalcino (2009) – This was from an ostensibly “difficult” vintage, but on the bright side, this means that this is a wine that has reached its peak at an earlier stage. The Altero evolved dramatically in the few years after its release, revealing a savoury, almost mushroom-like quality, and acquiring the elegance that the Slavonian Oak possessed in abundance.
- Madre (2013) – Made with 50% Sangiovese and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, and aged in separate French oak tonneuax, Madre was a delicious wine which I thoroughly enjoyed. It brought the best of both worlds into great harmony, with the structure, and ripe berry notes of Cabernet in concert with fresh acidity of Sangiovese, all coated with rounded tannins.
A great glass of wine – the tasting room was pretty chic too.

The Travelling Squid’s Take

Our visit to Poggio Antico was fun and casual. Similar to the other vineyards we had visited, we were the only guests, and it was nice to take our time to taste each wine. Most of their wines had great aging potential – you should definitely buy some bottles back to keep, however difficult that might be! 😛

We purchased the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino for €53 and it was exceedingly elegant, well-structured and balanced, yet still retaining it red fruit character after all those years – very much worth the price. The 2016 Madre which was priced at €28 was quite a steal. We also bought both the 2015 Brunello di Montalcino €47 and 2015 Altero Brunello €52 to keep. Looking forward to opening them in a decade or so (that’s gonna be hard)!

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Visit to the cellar door of Poggio Antico in Montalcino
- Address: 53024 Montalcino (Siena), Italy
- Tel: +39 0577-848044
- Website: https://www.poggioantico.com/tours/ [Click here to book a tour]
- E: mail@poggioantico.com
March 29, 2020
Having Florentine steak at L’Osteria di Giovanni in Florence
Having Florentine steak at L’Osteria di Giovanni in Florence

Florentine steak or bistecca alla fiorentina is a must-try during you trip to Florence. The steak was very different from the ones I had tried (mostly steaks from New York-style steakhouses such as Wolfgang and Keens Steakhouse.) Having Florentine steak at L’Osteria di Giovanni in Florence was most interesting because the steak tasted very different – it was less greasy, leaner, but had a crisp crust which coated the dry-aged meat inside. It felt like a rather healthy steak, one that did not evoke feelings of guilt after consumption.

We chose L’Osteria di Giovanni to have this special meal because it was a family-owned restaurant. The owner Giovanni Latini, was present while we were there, welcoming each guest who came. He even took their orders. At times, you could see that he was tired as he rested a hand on the chair, but it seems that being out at the restaurant and interacting with customers was of great importance. You can read more about L’Osteria di Giovanni’s history here.

The Menu

Our experience having Florentine steak at L’Osteria di Giovanni in Florence

The Food

Starters – Fried dough-sticks (complimentary)

Fried dough-stick for starters.

For starters, we had fried dough-sticks. They were pretty tasty – lightly fried and chewy without much seasoning. They were delicious and soon, one wasn’t enough.

Sides – Ribollita (€13)

It doesn’t look like much but it was actually quite tasty.

Ribollita is a famous Tuscan bread soup made with bread and vegetables. The picture does not look appetizing to be honest, but it was quite delicious. The soup had a good body to it. The croutons added a nice texture to the soup as well. As I was sharing this with S, the restaurant offered to portion out two servings of soup for both of us.

Garden Salad – €6

Garden Salad.

We did not have fresh vegetables for several days so this dish was welcomed. It was a good side dish as we had a steak to come later. My favourite vegetable in this dish was the fennel. It was sweet and crunchy and went well with the rest of the vegetables.

Al Passo Toscana – €30

We opened a bottle of Al Passo wine.

The wine we ordered was a Tuscan IGT, it was structured, with notes of red fruit and earth. At €30, it was very worth it given that Tolaini was quite a reputable winery and was selling at €24 on online shops.

A Tuscan wine to go with a Tuscan steak.

Florentine Steak / Bistecca alla fiorentina – €55

Having Florentine steak at L’Osteria di Giovanni in Florence

The highlight of our meal was the Florentine Steak. It was a T-bone steak made from calf of the Chianina breed, and had both the lean fillet cut as well as the sirloin. If you enjoy steaks with a crisp crust and chargrilled flavour, this was done quite perfectly. I am guessing they were able to achieve this texture as the meat was dried-aged for at least two weeks. Most of the meat we had was lean, compared to the New York steaks which tend to be oozing lots of oil, drenched it plenty of its juices with plenty of fat. This made me think that the Florentine steak was actually the healthiest steak I’ve had.

The Travelling Squid’s Take

The damage was €110 for two of us. It was a reasonable price as we had both a bottle of wine and a huge steak. I found the service quite good too – the waiter was friendly and knowledgeable, and the sight of the owner reaching out to each customer to ask if everything was alright was quite a sincere gesture. It made for a great meal after we expended some energy walking around Florence Cathedral and Pitti Palace. Having Florentine steak at L’Osteria di Giovanni in Florence was a good experience – I’ll definitely recommend that you make a visit if you come to Florence.

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Having Florentine steak at L’Osteria di Giovanni in Florence
- Address: Via del Moro, 22, 50123 Firenze
- Tel: 055 284897
- Email: info@osteriadigiovanni.com
- Website: http://www.osteriadigiovanni.com/book-a-table/ [You can make a reservation here too.]
March 18, 2020