Author: phebebay

Why the Antinori winery near Florence is a must-visit
Why the Antinori winery near Florence is a must visit – it’s not just about good wine…

If you’re visiting Florence, a visit to the Antinori nel Chianti Classico winery is a must, especially for those who appreciate wine. Antinori is one of the oldest companies in the world, with roots that can be traced back to 1385. While we were there in February, it was still cold and the vines were resting. But the Antinori estate was still beautiful, especially when we took the spiral staircase up to the rooftop garden. Here is why the Antinori winery near Florence is a must-visit.

Even the driveway was so stylish!

Why the Antinori winery near Florence is a must-visit

Antinori has huge historical significance in Italy’s wine industry, playing a significant role in the ‘Super Tuscan‘ revolution in the 70s. Back then, wine-makers were very tightly restricted in terms of the type and percentage of grape varietals that could be used in wine to get a certain accreditation, such as DOC or DOCG. Some wine-makers decided to ignore this classification and make ‘Super Tuscans’, wines from Tuscany made with blends and wine-making techniques that were not based on the conditions for accreditation. Back then, these wines could not fetch a price as high as those with DOCG accreditation, but many of them proved to be excellent in their own way.

Tignanello – one of the movers and shakes of that era.

Antinori’s most famous wine – Tignanello – is made from grapes grown at a 47 hectare vineyard acquired in 1900. According to Wikipedia, the wine was produced for the first time in 1970 by Piero Antinori – whose father Nicolo had scandalised/revolutionised (depending on the time period) the Tuscany wine region by experimenting with French Bordeaux grape varietals. He was rewarded for challenging the status quo when Tignanello won several international awards. Since 1982, Tignanello has been made from approximately 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc. The vineyard lies at 350–400 metres above sea level, within the Santa Cristina estate (also known as Tenuta Tignanello). [It is a 10min drive from the Antinori nel Chianti Classico. See picture below.]

The Tenuta Tignanello vineyard. To be honest, it looked like an ordinary Tuscan vineyard to me 😛

Location & Parking

Antinori was a short 30 min drive from our hotel B&B The Attico in Florence. It was also a 30 min drive from our lunch destination, the restaurant of Dario Cecchini. If you are heading to Siena, it is a 40 min drive away. If you drive, you are able to park within the complex during winter. During other seasons, you can park at the carpark located across the winery.

The driveway was so stylish!

A great piece of architecture. And yes, we parked outside the vineyard so we walked up this slope.

The Antinori vineyard – view from the carpark. It’s massive.

Wine tours range from €35 – €160

There is an option of pre-booking a wine tour around this big estate. The basic tour costs €35, and if you wish to have lunch at the restaurant, it costs €160. We didn’t take this option as we were looking to try other types of wines other than the ones listed in the tour, including the Tignanello. We also had four other Brunello vineyards to visit the day after (more on that in a post to come).

Visit to the wine shop – you can do a tasting too

Solaia, another Super Tuscan pioneer

Wine lovers could spend a day in Antinori’s wine shop – the selection was so diverse. The good thing is that we had a chance to taste the wines before buying them. We tried the Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva for €4 and the Tignanello for €8 – like the staff suggested, the Chianti Classico was the younger brother of the Tignanello. More fruit-forward, but less refined and elegant. That said, both were excellent and we bought a bottle of each – both to rest for a few years before enjoying. The Chianti Classico was about €30 while the Tignanello was €77. It was a reasonable price for the quality. At an admittedly touristy wine shop in Siena, the price about €120.

Rooftop vineyard and garden

The vineyard on the roof.

After buying the wines, we climbed up the spiral staircase to see the garden. From an architectural standpoint, it was quite a feat because the vineyards integrated quite seamlessly into the facade of the main Antinori building.

Vines on the roof – quite an engineering feat too, I must say.

The Tuscan hills in the distance.

Thought the insertion of the building into the hill was pretty cool.

The Travelling Squid’s Take

The spiral staircase got me like wow.

If you’re into wine, Antinori makes for a great visit. The estate is very well-designed – architecturally, it gives the appearance of the building flowing into the hills, while being enveloped by the vines. I’m sure it will look beautiful in summer. A minor caveat is that this is not actually the vineyard where the grapes of their more acclaimed wines, such as Solaia and Tignanello are grown. That’ll be found further East, at Tenuta Tignanello. The brown tones are not intrusive and so are the contours of the building which folds into the hills. While we didn’t take the tour around the building, I was glad to view the rooftop garden and the hills of Tuscany. The wine prices were also much more reasonable than the ones we had seen in major cities.

***

Why the Antinori winery near Florence is a must visit
- Address: Via Cassia per Siena, 133, 50026 Bargino FI, Italy
- Phone: +39 055 235 9700
- Website: https://www.antinori.it/en/tenuta/estates-antinori/antinori-nel-chianti-classico-estate/
- No appointment required if you are simply visiting the wine shop.
March 15, 2020
Is gelato healthier than ice-cream?

Is gelato healthier than ice-cream?

After having great gelato at Gelateria dei Neri in Florence, I read up more about gelato because it was tasted great as a dessert, though I felt guilty after eating as it was so dense and sweet. I could not finish my €4 gelato cone despite its rich flavours and smooth texture. It then got me thinking – Is gelato healthier than ice-cream?

Difference between Gelato and Ice-cream

The main difference between gelato and ice-cream lies in the proportion of ingredients and the way they are made. Ice cream is made with heavy cream and typically has a higher fat content, while gelato is made with mostly milk, so it is usually lower in fat. During the production process, ice cream is churned at high speeds to let in air and pump up the volume, resulting in a lighter, fluffier texture. According to Food Republic, gelato is slow-churned, which causes it to be denser, milkier and slower to melt. As a result, gelato is served at a higher temperature than ice-cream.

I ordered a medium sized gelato at Gelateria dei Neri in Florence and could not finish it.

So, is gelato healthier than ice-cream?

While the fat content of ice-cream is higher (ice-cream is typically more than 10%, while gelato is less than 10%), I would hesitate to say that gelato is healthier because the sugar content in gelato is much higher, for taste due to its high density. While having a gelato at Gelateria dei Neri in Florence, I ordered the dark chocolate version and the chocolate flavour was intense. It was also quite sweet.

While gelato appears healthier than ice-cream due to lower fat levels, Forbes raises a good point that one tends to feel fuller from gelato as compared to ice-cream, hence you tend to eat smaller amounts, resulting in a smaller calorie intake than ice-cream.

The Travelling Squid’s Take – Is gelato healthier than ice-cream?

There is no perfect answer to this question, as the sugar and fat levels of gelato and ice-cream vary from gelateria to ice-cream shop. Do not simply think gelato is healthier just because its fat content is lower than ice-cream. At this point, I must disagree with this Reviewed article which says that gelato is healthier. The answer is, it really depends. In general, gelato tends to have slightly less fat, but more sugar than ice-cream, hence a higher calorie amount. That said, the sugar and fat composition in gelato and ice-cream varies from gelateria to icre-cream shop. It also depends on the amount you have. So my view is just enjoy whichever you prefer, and with everything, eat in moderation. =)

March 12, 2020
Is it worth paying to climb up the Leaning Tower of Pisa?

Is it worth paying to climb up the Leaning Tower of Pisa?

We visited Pisa on a somewhat gloomy day. It was pouring when we arrived in Pisa from Florence, but the weather cleared up when we got from the train station to where the tower was. There were plenty of people holding up their hands, trying to super-impose themselves pushing the building or holding it with the tips of their fingers. For me, I was quite taken in by the lean of the tower This then begged the question – is it worth paying to climb up the Leaning Tower of Pisa? The entrance ticket was €18 for adults (and includes admission to the Pisa Cathedral too).

About The Leaning Tower of Pisa

Is it worth paying to climb up the Leaning Tower of Pisa. The Pisa Cathedral looks lonely.

I read about the Leaning Tower of Pisa since young – it was part of my children’s encyclopedia of fun facts. There was a mention of Pompeii and the Colosseum too, which I managed to visit on this trip and I am quite glad for that.

The Leaning Tower of Pisa was described as one of the world’s few naturally leaning buildings. (Today, there have been others which have followed in its footsteps, but were built to lean.) The tower started to lean due to an unstable foundation. According to Wikipedia, construction of the tower started in the 12th century and was only completed close to 200 years later, in the 14th century. The lean worsened to 5.5 degrees as the soft grown below could not support the weight of the tower. The structure was later stablised at a tilt of 3.97 degrees. The Leaning Tower of Pisa has 8 floors and 294 steps; the 7th floor has two fewer steps on the staircase facing the north.

A fun fact – the Tower has faced 4 earthquakes since the 13th century but did not collapse. Research later revealed that it was the interaction of the building’s height with the soft soil which created a frequency that prevented the structure from resonating to ground motion experienced by buildings during earthquakes.

Is it worth paying to climb up the Leaning Tower of Pisa?

Leaning or not, the architecture is quite beautiful.

I’ve got to admit that the entrance ticket of €18 was rather pricey, especially since I didn’t have much interest in visiting the other attractions. But I thought it was worth it because I wanted to experience climbing up a leaning building. It was slightly disorientating at times but worth the experience. Here are three reasons why I think its worth paying to climb up the Leaning Tower of Pisa. We completed the ascend in less than 15 minutes and the descend in about 10 minutes.

1. A unique experience climbing the stairs of the tower

You get a sense that the tower swings to one side.

While climbing up the stairs, it felt a little disorientating as I felt that the building was inclined to one side. I would say that it took me a little more effort to get my balance. If you need to reoriented yourself, simply look out of one of the Tower’s many windows. The bird’s eye view of the city of Pisa is quite calming.

Looking out.

Rooftops of Pisa – it’s a lot less dense. There are hills in the distance.

The spiral staircase – notice the indentations on the outer steps.

The outer area on the steps were also indented – a testament of the number of footsteps pounding on its marble staircase, a sign of how popular the Tower was.

A mighty bell on the roof.

2. You have travelled all the way here so why not

How the tower looks like from the top.

If you’re in Pisa, you might have travelled an hour from Florence or 4 hours from Rome to get there. This goes against the sunk cost fallacy but I would have felt incomplete if I returned to Florence without entering the Leaning Tower of Pisa. It is also my way of contributing to local conservation and restoration efforts, for the short time that I am there.

3. Some appreciation of the Leaning Tower of Pisa wouldn’t hurt

Using the cypress tree as benchmark.

If I was the guardian of the Leaning Tower of Pisa, I would be somewhat annoyed. Many people stream in to take photos with it, but who actually knows some facts about the building? Besides taking a nice Instagram photo, why not include a fun fact in your caption as well…

***

The Travelling Squid’s Take

Having climbed up to the top of the Leaning Tower of Pisa, I would say that the tower is not only beautiful on the outside, but on the inside as well. The marble used in its pillars, stairs and walls was beautiful, and the trip up was memorable too. Is it worth paying to climb up the Leaning Tower of Pisa? I would say definitely yes, because the feeling of climbing up a leaning tower is one-of-a-kind. The experience was also very different from climbing up the Florence Cathedral, or the Milan Cathedral too. Each building had its own quirks.

Enjoy!

March 11, 2020
Recommended: Having dinner at Ristorante Natalino in Florence
Having dinner at Ristorante Natalino in Florence

We were looking for a place for dinner on our third night in Florence, and came across Ristorante Natalino. So far, our meals in Florence had been great, including our visit to Marlborghetto for pizza. The reviews for Ristorante Natalino were good and we entered. I was pleasantly surprised by the huge fresco on the wall which was a painting of a bridge overlooking a river. It was very 3-dimensional and realistic at the same time. The vegetables and fish looked like they were jutting out from the picture.

Love this fresco – it made me feel like I was overlooking the river.

I was wondering what was the difference between a ristorante and a trattoria. It turns out that based on the description below, a ristorante was supposed to be more formal and its food more expensive. But it wasn’t the case for Ristorante Natalino. The setting was casual and the food prices were average.

Like the little set up of this place.

What is the difference between a ristorante, trattoria and osteria?

In Italy, you’re likely to find these food establishments as you walk around the city. In the past, a ristorante is technically the most formal of the three, which serves finer cuisine. A trattoria can be likened to a family-owned restaurant, serving simpler, casual food. An osteria is a wine bar that has evolved to serve food as well.

Having dinner at Ristorante Natalino in Florence

Wine: Donne Fittipaldi Bolgheri – €28

A bottle of Donne Fittipaldi Bolgheri. It was a pretty good wine.

The label of the Donne Fittipaldi Bolgheri is interesting. It’s a picture of feet being used to step on grapes. It is said to be sanitary because the acid, water and alcohol in wine prevents pathogens from surviving though I am glad this practice has stopped. The wine was a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, which had body, structure and went well with the red meats we ordered.

Side: Crostini with chicken liver – €6

Crostini with chicken liver.

The bread and chicken liver was a great match. It was crunchy and went well with the warm, wet texture of the chicken liver. I highly recommend that you order this as a side. It was delicious.

Main: Rabbit Stew with french fries – €16

Rabbit with french fries

The rabbit stew was very tasty – it was rich in flavour, both from the meat and the sauce made from red wine. However, I must say that the portion was small. You might want to get a side to go with it.

Main: Fresh pasta with meat sauce and mushrooms – €12

Fresh pasta with meat sauce and mushrooms

This was quite delicious. The pasta was al-dente and the meat sauce went very well together. I enjoyed the herbs which was sprinkled on top of it.

Side: Spinach

Ordered some vegetables as part of our meal.

This was not on the menu and the waiter offered spinach as an option when we requested for some vegetables.

The Travelling Squid’s Take

In general, I enjoyed the food – it was hearty and delicious, and went well with the wine which we ordered. What really stood out for me was the interesting fresco in the restaurant. The restaurant gets quite busy after 7.30pm, so try to go early if you can.

***

Having dinner at Ristorante Natalino in Florence
- Address: Borgo degli Albizi, 17/R, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy
- Phone: +39 055 289404
- Opening hours: Daily, 12.30pm – 2.30pm/ 6.30pm – 10.30pm
- Website: https://www.ristorantenatalino.com/en/
March 9, 2020
7 lesser-known paintings at Pitti Palace’s Gallery of Modern Art

7 lesser-known paintings at Pitti Palace’s Gallery of Modern Art

The Gallery of Modern Art at Pitti Palace was to me, the best gallery of Uffizi Gallery in Florence. To be honest, I was a little tired from looking at famous paintings from centuries ago at Florence Cathedral, the Dodge’s Palace in Venice and the Milan Cathedral. As they were religious works of art, the themes were similar. After seeing many different impressions of Madonna, we longed for something more modern – an impressionist piece or two, or simply, pieces of natural scenery or artworks unique to Florence. Unlike the famed Leonardo da Vinci paintings, here are 7 lesser known paintings at Pitti Palace’s Gallery of Modern Art.

You can see the Boboli Gardens from here.

About Pitti Palace’s Gallery of Modern Art

The museum overlooks Florence

The Gallery of Modern Art in Pitti Palace houses works from the late 18th century to the early 20th century, which impacted Italy’s art scene. Some of the pieces are best works from competitions, while artworks from private and public collections were added to it later on. Once inhabited by the Grand Dukes of Habsburg-Lorraine, these rooms now host Neoclassical and Romantic artworks.

7 lesser known paintings at Pitti Palace’s Gallery of Modern Art

1. The morning of 27 April 1859 by Enrico Alessandro Fanfani

The morning of 27 April 1859 by Enrico Alessandro Fanfani

According to the Uffizi Gallery, the painting captures a crucial moment in Florentine history: the peaceful expulsion of the Habsburg-Lorraine family from Florence, and the creation of a provisional, independent government that marked the prelude to its voluntary annexing to the Kingdom of Italy. According to a Florentine lawyer who was just eight years of age, it was a “velvet revolution” since the change of government was completed without the use of violence.

The painting shows a moment of jubilation inside the Loggia de’ Lanzi: some are celebrating the departure of the grand duke, Leopold II of Lorraine leaving Florence with his family, in a carriage directed towards Vienna. Some others are raising the Italian flag with others are throwing their hats in the air, and some are simply observing the event.

It was an interesting picture especially since we had visited Loggia de’ Lanzi earlier on and I was taken back by the statue holding a beheaded head with sculpture blood trickling down – it was not the most pleasant of sights. I was glad to know the significance of this picture.

At Loggia de’ Lanzi, this was front of the beheaded sculpture.

2. Afternoon in Fiesole (Self portrait) by Baccio Maria Bacci

Afternoon in Fiesole (Self portrait) by Baccio Maria Bacci
Photo credit: Uffizi Gallery

I found this painting striking because of the simplicity and realism of it all. It make me think of a weekend scene at a friend’s house. People having a conversation after a fulfilling meal. Indeed, according to the Uffizi Gallery, this was a scene of the artist’s home at Fiesole, near Florence. Bacci is seated on the right with his dog in front of him, while his friend, artist Guido Peyron is playing the guitar. The two ladies are the artist’s wives.

This was interesting because it encompasses different genres, the portrait, the still life on the table top, the genre scene and the painting of the landscape of Tuscan hills seen from the room, come together within the space of the painting.

3. Sulle rive dell’Ofanto by Giuseppe De Nittis [On the banks of Ofanto]

This painting describes a scene along the banks of Oftanto located in Southern Italy. It is calming, with the lake providing an almost perfect reflection of the sky. I thought that with its calming effect, it would be a nice painting to put at home. It seems that many people thought the same and there were many shops online selling the canvas version of this painting. The painter, Giuseppe De Nittis, was one of the most important Italian painters of the 19th century, merging styles of Salon art with Impressionism. Unfortunately, he died at a young age of 38 from a sudden stroke.

4. Ritratto di Karl Eduard von Liphard by Ernst Friedich von Liphart [Portrait of Karl Eduard von Liphard]

(Portrait of) Ritratto di Karl Eduard von Liphard by Ernst Friedich von Liphart

The portrait of his father, Karl Eduard von Liphard, was painted by Ernst Friedich von Liphart in 1883. This was some years after Ernst had been disinherited by his father in 1873 for converting to marry a Roman Catholic Florentine girl. I like the depth of this picture and the number of pictures within a picture. Perhaps Ernst did this to convey affection for his distant father. Ernst later went on to be an accomplished artist, painting portraits including one of Tsar Nicholas II, and then later became curator of the Hermitage Museum in St Petersberg.

5. Sorge La Luna by Giorgio Kienerk

Sorge La Luna by Giorgio Kienerk

This was one of the rare impressionist paintings I had come across in Italy, and I absolutely loved it. I enjoyed the movement of the trees and leaves against the backdrop of the setting sun. There was some movement and elegance amidst what seem to be overgrown plants on the first glance. I would say Giorgio Kienerk was not as well-known as the other painters featured in this post, but the the rare impressionist painting in the Gallery of Modern Art was like a fresh breath of air.

6. Stella and Piero by Vittorio Matteo Corcos

Stella and Piero by Vittorio Matteo Corcos

I was very surprised to see a picture like that – it looked almost like a photograph but it was actually done in oil. The Florentine sums up the description of the picture quite well:

It is of two youths relaxing, in a style typical of paintings by Corcos, who was known to have a keen interest in the industrious spirit of women. Stella looks at the observer straight on, her timid wistfulness unlike the guile found in many of Corcos’ other portraits of high-society women, while Piero teases her with loose pieces of straw.

The painting was made in 1889 and was acquired by the Uffizzi Gallery in 2018.

7. The Arno River And The Holy Trinity Bridge In Florence by Antonio Fontanesi

The Arno River And The Holy Trinity Bridge In Florence by Antonio Fontanesi

Visitors to Florence would find the Ponte Santa Trinita (Holy Trinity Bridge) familiar. I liked the way the houses and bridge were depicted in the picture, with the setting sun fading in the background, highlighting the arches of the bridge. The painter Antonio Fontanesi was an 19th century Italian painter who lived in Meiji period Japan between 1876 and 1878. He was responsible for introducing European oil painting techniques to Japan, and was responsible for influencing Japanese architecture and art for the next few decades.

What the Holy Trinity Bridge looks like.

***

The Travelling Squid’s Take – 7 lesser-known paintings at Pitti Palace’s Gallery of Modern Art

I’m sure that there are many more lesser-known paintings at Pitti Palace’s Gallery of Modern Art worth checking out, but hope you enjoyed this rough guide. While I did enjoy this part of the museum very much, there seems to be a lack of English descriptions for each painting. You were find more detailed English descriptions for paintings at the Uffizi Gallery nearby. Enjoy!

March 8, 2020
A guide to visit Florence Cathedral in under two hours

A guide to visit Florence Cathedral in under two hours – View from the rooftop of Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore

If you’re in Florence for a few days, visiting Florence Cathedral is almost a necessity given the size and significance of this monument. But there are numerous sections to visit in Florence Cathedral and the long lines outside can be daunting. Fret not, here is a guide to visit Florence Cathedral under two hours. We visited two sections – the Dome and the museum.

Florence Cathedral – some parts were undergoing construction.

View of the cathedral from the top.

Tickets

Having visited the Duomo di Milano in Milan and climbed up to its rooftop, we had some idea of what to expect of this other Duomo. But we were not prepared for the long lines outside the church, just before the opening time of 10am. We arrived at the ticket office at about 9.45am and proceeded to buy our tickets for €18. The ticket staff said that we could make a reservation at the ticket machine near the counter. We made a reservation for the Dome at 10am. It was good that we made a reservation as there was a long line at the side of the cathedral, at 9.55am. The doors only opened at 10.10am.

[Sidetrack to a para on Washrooms]

There are washrooms available for free, but you have to enter the museum. There are also washrooms located at the other end of the cathedral, but those cost €1. It appears that most public toilets cost about €1 for use – the only positive thing is that there is toilet paper and the toilets and quite clean.

The Dome

The artistic dome of the Florence Cathedral

The Dome involves a fair bit of walking and stair-climbing, so brace yourself. There were several people who paused to take breather, which was fine. It’s just that the paths can get quite narrow and the steps steep, so be careful. There are two viewing spaces around the dome. They are surrounded by an acrylic panel (so no one falls out). It was quite an experience to see the artwork up close. In the cathedral, these paintings would usually be high up. The paintings were quite unique too – there were pictures of demons being punished, which was quite similar to Chinese mythology too. It was most interesting.

Love the uniform coloured rooftops.

The view of the rooftop of the Florence Cathedral was nice too. You could see most of Florence from here. It was actually a really well-organised city.

Rooftops

The rooftop view of Florence is quite nice.

The pillars were quite ornate too.

Museum

The Florence Cathedral museum had plenty of sculptures and art pieces too. I believe these were taken from parts of the church during restoration. My favourite part of the museum was the marble carvings, as there was an option of touching them. We went through several levels of the museum pretty quickly.

Where the marble carvings were.

For the first time, there were exhibits which could be touched.

The viewing gallery.

This is a statue of a Saint, I forgot which. Just thought it was pretty well-done.

The Travelling Squid’s Take

It is not difficult to visit Florence Cathedral in under two hours – just go early to purchase the tickets, make a reservation in advance, be super focused and you’ll be out soon. After our visits, I can only say that the restoration work at the Cathedral was done very well as the paintings on the dome was done by different artists with different methods. Today, it looks uniformed. The sculptures on display at the museum also seem to be in very good condition. Definitely worth a visit, no matter how short it is.

March 6, 2020
Recommended: Having gelato at Gelateria dei Neri in Florence
I ordered a medium sized gelato and could not finish it.

I have heard about the famed Gelato since young, and took the chance to try it during my recent trip to Italy. This dessert is great after a mid-day meal, or even a meal of Florentine Steak (Bistecca alla Fiorentina). Of all the gelato places I tried in Italy, the gelato at Gelateria dei Neri in Florence was the best, I’m guessing because of its traditional gelato-making techniques since 1989. It didn’t have a huge variety of flavours but the traditional flavours of pistachio, vanilla, chocolate, hazelnut and fior-di-latte (milk) was good enough for me.

Having gelato at Gelateria dei Neri in Florence

While gelato may be denser and heavier, it has a lower fat content than ice-cream. That said, please don’t mistaken gelato to be a healthier alternative to ice-cream. It really depends as the sugar content in gelato can be much higher. The sobering health stuff aside, here’s our experience having gelato at Gelateria dei Neri in Florence.

There were a variety of flavours but I wanted to try the more traditional gelato flavours like pistachio, chocolate and hazelnut. You are only allowed to try one flavour, so be careful with your choice. I tried the fior-di-latte and it did not quite make an impression. S and I both got dark chocolate and we had pistachio and hazelnut in separate cones.

Gelateria Del Neri in Florence

I can appreciate gelato for its smooth texture and deep, intense flavour, but the denseness got to me after awhile. I typically don’t feel full after one scoop of ice-cream, but I got to say that this was a tad cloying after I was halfway done with the two scopes of my €4 cone. I was glad that I had it in a cone, as the cone provided some texture to the gelato that I was eating.

The Travelling Squid’s Take

If you’re new to gelato, I suggest that you try having a small portion of traditional flavours first, before moving on to try bigger portions and new flavours. The gelato at Gelateria dei Neri in Florence was quite amazing – do give it a try while you are there!

***

Having gelato at Gelateria dei Neri in Florence
- Address: Via De’ Neri 9/11R, 50122, Florence Italy
- Tel: +39 055 210034
- Website: https://www.facebook.com/gelateriadeneri
- Opening hours: 10:30 – 23:30
March 5, 2020
Check out Malborghetto for affordable pizza in Florence
This was a ham and mushroom pizza. It was oozing what seems to be olive oil and melted cheese. Delicious.

If you’re looking to have pizza in Florence, do check out Malborghetto. It was one of the most affordable meals we had in Italy. The restaurant doesn’t quite fall under the list of popular pizza eateries in Florence, but the pizza was absolutely delicious. It was a good reflection of what Neopolitan pizza should be, despite the restaurant being located in Florence, not Naples. Here is why you should check out Malborghetto for affordable pizza in Florence.

Check out Malborghetto for affordable pizza in Florence – it was not too crowded when we visited for dinner.

Location

Malborghetto is located in central Florence, slightly away from the touristy parts of Duomo di Firenze and near to our hotel, B&B The Attico. There are a few bars located nearby – do check them out after a hearty meal.

The Food

The ingredients were very fresh – the cheese was most amazing.

We ordered two piccole (small-sized) pizzas and they were about €4 each. The price was really affordable because pizzas that quality and size in Singapore would have cost €10 or more. We also ordered two glasses of wine to go with the pizza and they cost €4 per glass. Therefore, our meal which included a huge pizza and a glass of wine was €8 per person, which is much cheaper than eating at a restaurant in Singapore.

A sign of a good pizza was its dough, which had specs of ‘leopard spotting’ around the pizza and at the back. It was also very chewy and went well with the flavours of the tomato sauce and general portions of mozzarella cheese.

Two glasses of wine (of generous portions) to go with the pizza – they were under €5.

The Travelling Squid’s Take

We spent a really short time in Malborghetto as the pizzas came pretty quickly and we ate fast as we were pretty hungry. But it was a meal we truly enjoyed – not only because of the price point but the fact that the pizza was well done – good dough, a good margherita sauce and fresh mozzarella cheese. It was a meal to remember.

***

Why you should check out Malborghetto for affordable pizza in Florence
- Address: Via dell’Agnolo, 22, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy
- Tel: +39 055 246 6446
- Website: The pizza place is very local, I don’t think it has one, but check out its Tripadvisor page for more information.
March 3, 2020
Recommended: Stay at B&B The Attico in Florence
View from our B&B The Attico

If you’re planning a trip to Tuscany, I would recommend that you stay at B&B The Attico in Florence. We found the location frequented by locals despite Florence’s reputation for being a touristy city. The design of the room too was thoughtfully done and we had a comfortable stay – glad we had booked the place for 4 nights.

Location

The rooftop.

The Attico in Florence is located near Viale Gramsci, a less touristy area in Florence with local shops and bars. It’s also where most locals hang out. During our stay, we had dinner at both a pizza place and local restaurant (trattoria) and both restaurants served excellent food. They were about a 10 minute walk away from our hotel. It is also a 15-minute walk from the popular tourist attraction Duomo.

Getting in

We arrived at about 7pm in the evening, after taking an Italo train from Venice to Florence. It was a pleasant train ride. As we arrived outside of work hours, the owner asked that we press the buzzer at the entrance of the apartment. He then remotely gave us access to enter the building, and access to the lift which goes up to the 5th floor. There was a situation when we were trying to enter the lift, but someone else was in the lift and we could not take the lift up to the 5th floor (we made it to the 4th and climbed one flight of stairs up). Unfortunately, the door was locked. But that was sorted after we called the owner and he let us in.

The Room

Our stay at B&B The Attico in Florence

The room was small but very well-designed. It made one feel very comfortable despite not being very big. There was also a day bed – an option if you are travelling in the company of three people. The room uses minimalist wood tones. We also like the little details, like the use of lamps and lights to brighten the room. There is also a warm tower hanger in the toilet, great if you need to wash your clothes during a long trip.

The design of the room was well done.

The bath area.

The Breakfast

The breakfast room.

The breakfast was a simple one, with eggs, coffee, toast, ham and cheese. There was a cereal and the owner offered to make coffee for us every morning. While the selection was slightly smaller than our hotel in Venice, we did enjoy the breakfast experience as there was lounge music and a good view from the rooftops.

The breakfast laid out. I like the chocolate croissant and had one for the four nights we were there.

The Travelling Squid’s Take

Florence was an easy city to explore and it felt good to have a nice hotel to return to every night. It was great to know that there were several good restaurants and bars just a short walk from our hotel. We will definitely return to this B&B should we visit Florence again.

***

Stay at B&B The Attico in Florence
- Address: Via Vincenzo Gioberti, 78N, 50121 Firenze FI, Italy
- Phone: +39 339 628 0585
- Website: http://bb-the-attico.florence-hotels-it.com/en/
March 2, 2020
Is spending 2 days in Venice enough?
This has got to be my favourite photo of Venice. Is spending 2 days in Venice enough?

If you’re planning a trip to Venice, 2 days is just about the right amount of time to cover the city. It’s a charming city no doubt, but I will still have appreciated the time to visit other less touristy parts of Italy, to try the local food and experience local culture. I had a little bit of that at local bars and restaurants in Venice, but it felt important to venture out, to see what Italy was actually like. Is spending 2 days in Venice enough? I would say you could even cut it down to 1.5 days.

Is spending 2 days in Venice enough?

Day 1 – St Mark’s Square, Dodge’s Palace, Castello

The Doge’s Palace.

St Mark’s Square and the Dodge’s Palace are Venice’s most famous sights. We took the Secret Itineraries tour around the Dodge’s Palace and got to learn about Venetian culture and history, which was really helpful.

We noticed some bedsheets hanging over the cobblestone streets in Castello

After lunch, we visited Castello, which was further along the water’s edge from San Marco. To our astonishment, the whole neighbourhood was almost a ghost town. There were houses with flaking paint and boarded up windows, while an unnatural quiet had descended on the town. I found this strange as just 10 minutes away, St Mark’s Square was busy with tourists. It then got me thinking, why are there so many empty houses in Venice? Read on to find out more.

Transport
- 5 reasons to get around Italy by train with Italo
Sights
We also visited the Ostaria Dai Zemei and Al Merca for dinner and drinks. The crostini at Ostaria Dai Zemei was delicious, while Al Merca served good wine.

Food and Drink
Day 2 – Murano and Burano

Actual residents of Burano greeting each other.

The next day, we took a ferry out to visit Murano which was pretty much a ghost town apart from the few curious tourists (including us). Murano was known for its glassware while Burano, its lace products and painted houses. Murano was very quiet, with only a few glass factories open. Burano was more interesting – it had a lace museum and we had a fun time observing tourists take selfies of themselves.
- Is Burano and Murano in Venice worth visiting?
We left at 9am that morning and were back by 2pm. There was more than enough time for our train to Florence later at 4pm. If you are keen to buy food gifts back from Venice, click on the link below.
- 5 types of food gifts to bring back from Venice
The Travelling Squid’s Take

Why are there so many empty buildings in Venice?

Venice is an exceedingly charming city. There is no city like it – one with its canals, occasionally overflowing, flooding the homes of its resilient residents. Like a fog that descends over the town every morning, Venice seems to be fading into the distance. It is not only climate change that is causing its residents to leave. Rather, it is more about the lack of industry – for people to work, a place where families would find it easy to settle down at. Alas, it is an example that an over-reliance on anything, or anyone can be detrimental, a stern, grave warning that all tourists should be aware of, even as they take Instagram photos against the cheery backdrop of the painted houses of Burano.
February 28, 2020